Kosher kitchen: Observant Jewish cooks don't cut corners on dietary laws or on flavor

Published March 7, 2012 in the Commercial Appeal

Unlike larger cities, Memphis has very few kosher options for dining out. To keep kosher in Memphis, one must know where to shop, what to buy, and be willing to cook, a lot.

Lisa Kaufman, an Orthodox Jewish mom of four who lives in East Memphis, grew up in a traditional Jewish home and became even more observant later in life. She doesn't eat out, preferring to stay consistent with her faith's dietary restrictions by cooking and eating at home.

According to Jewish dietary laws, meat and dairy food must be prepared and consumed separately, and parve food (which has neither meat nor dairy ingredients) can be eaten with either meat or dairy dishes.

Meat must be bought from a kosher butcher and cooked separately. Kaufman says it is OK to eat milk before meat, but not after. Depending on someone's background, he or she may wait one to six hours after a meat meal to eat any dairy products. Fish and milk can be eaten together, but only certain kinds of fish are considered kosher.

Kaufman has separate areas in her kitchen for preparing meat and dairy dishes, including separate sinks and dishwashers. "I realize that not everyone has this luxury," she says.

Fruits, vegetables and items in their natural state, like rice or beans, are considered parve.

"Pantry items aren't as questionable," Kaufman says. "My pantry looks like anyone else's." She buys canned goods from places she trusts and relies on kosher symbols to make her purchasing decisions, since there are differing levels of strictness. "The 'K' is not copyrighted, so there can be questions," she says. "Most everyone goes with the 'OU.'"

The OU symbol belongs to the Orthodox Union and is one of the strictest kosher standards on the market today. Kaufman said if there is any question as to a product's suitability, a rabbi should be consulted.

Rivky Klein is an avid cook. She grew up in Brooklyn, N.Y., and moved here 18 years ago to start Chabad Lubavitch of Tennessee with her husband, Rabbi Levi Klein. They have seven children.

The family is strictly kosher, and Klein has to cook all of their meals, since kosher restaurants in Memphis are scarce. "I never get a break," she says, noting that Ricki's Cookie Corner at 5068 Park in the Eastgate Shopping Center has kosher baked goods and the Holy Cow inside the Jewish Community Center has some kosher deli items.

Klein not only cooks at home, but she also frequently cooks at the synagogue. "Every single thing we do at Chabad includes serving great food. Food is the way to the heart, and it brings people in the door," she says. Klein says it is a big deal for her to be able to make a good kosher meal for people to enjoy without compromising on quality or taste.

She learned to cook from her mother, whom she describes as a fabulous self-taught cook. "My mother made a gourmet Shabbat dinner every week. She baked fresh challah, made seven to eight salads and prepared fish, chicken and beef dishes."

Even though she learned a lot from her mother, Klein says she continues to perfect her skills and works hard to improve her dishes. "I'm always looking for new ideas and trying new things," she says.

Like Kaufman, Klein has two kitchens in one. "I built my kitchen in a convenient way so that there are separate sides for dairy and meat. It makes it simple." She has different patterns in silverware and dishes for dairy and meat.

Klein says almost anything can be kosher, except meat and dairy together. Some tricks Klein uses are substituting soy milk in recipes that are being served with meat, using margarine instead of butter and substituting other nondairy products like Tofutti sour cream.

When they entertain, they almost always have meat meals, so Klein is always looking for nondairy dishes to serve. "I make a chocolate mousse cake that is completely nondairy. People always say, 'But we just ate meat.' They can't believe it's kosher," she says.

Klein says that years ago, Manischewitz was the only kosher brand available. "What's out there today is unbelievable," she says. When Klein goes back to New York to visit, she looks for new products and has them shipped back. "Memphis doesn't even come close to New York," she says. "When I'm there, I'm like a kid in a candy store."

In Memphis, the Kroger on Mendenhall has the largest selection of kosher goods, including specialty items and products imported from Israel. Klein also notes there are a lot of products that most people use that are kosher, like General Mills cereals, Heinz ketchup, Hellmann's mayonnaise and La Choy soy sauce.

Klein says there is also a kosher co-op in town. Several families are members. The co-op allows them to order from out of town by the case or in bulk at a lower cost.

Iris Harkavy is an artist who has been keeping kosher for 53 years. "I love to cook. My Friday night meals have 22 people when all of my children and grandchildren are together," she says.

Harkavy describes her kitchen as kosher, but not extreme. "I don't have two dishwashers, but I wash my meat and milk dishes separately," she says. Harkavy buys all kosher products and also has separate plates and utensils. "That's who I am."

Keeping kosher is easy once you know where to shop and what products to buy, Harkavy says. "Kosher meats are different," she explains. "The cuts must come from certain parts of the cow." She says there used to be several kosher butcher shops in town with skilled butchers, but not anymore. "Many people order from St. Louis, Atlanta and New York," she says. "Every three months, a truck comes."

However, she is impressed with the newly renovated Kroger on Mendenhall, which now includes a fresh kosher meat department. "Kroger really has gone the extra mile. The kosher meat department is an amazing thing," she says. Harkavy also mentions the Kroger on Truse Parkway for its small kosher deli and kosher bakery.

She says cheeses also need to be inspected, because sometimes the aging process involves sheep and pig products. Orthodox Jews rely on the local Vaad, or council of rabbis, to oversee all of the kosher food in Memphis.

"I'm not nearly as limited as I was 53 years ago," Harkavy says. She is especially thankful for the bounty of soy products available.

Harkavy admits that keeping kosher can be complicated if you aren't used to it. "With me, it's second nature because I've learned the secrets."

Nondairy Chocolate Mousse Cake

7 eggs, separated

1 cup granulated sugar, divided use

1 stick margarine

7 oz. chocolate chips, parve

1 tbsp. vanilla extract

1 (8 oz.) carton nondairy whipped topping

4 tbsp. confectioners' sugar

Chocolate chips or sprinkles, for garnish

Beat egg whites with 1/4 cup granulated sugar until stiff.

In a small saucepan, melt margarine and chocolate chips. Beat egg yolks with remaining granulated sugar and vanilla. Add chocolate chip mixture to yolk mixture and mix well. Fold in egg whites. Pour half of the mixture into a spring form pan. Bake for 30 minutes at 350 degrees. Refrigerate remaining half of mixture. When cake is cool, pour refrigerated mixture over it, then freeze.

Beat whipped topping with sugar and spread on top of cake. Sprinkle with chocolate chips or chocolate sprinkles and return to freezer until a few hours before serving.

Basic Kreplach (Jewish Wonton)

Dough:

13/4 cup flour

2 eggs

1/2 tsp. salt

3 tbsp. oil

Filling:

1 small onion, diced

2 tbsp. oil

1 cup ground cooked beef or chicken

1 tsp. salt

For dough: In a large bowl, combine flour, eggs, salt and oil. Knead and roll out thin on a floured board. Using a glass, cut into 3-inch circles, (or in 3-inch squares).

For filling, sauté onion in oil and add ground beef or chicken and salt.

To assemble, place a teaspoon of filling on the center of your squares or circles. Shape into a triangle or crescent, and press the edges to seal firmly.

To cook, boil them in hot salted water for 20 minutes or until they float to the top, or for a crisper version, sauté in heated oil on medium heat until golden brown on both sides. Serve in chicken soup.

Yield: 18 kreplach.

-- Recipes from Rivky Klein

Families choosing only fresh, natural, 'real food' boast improved health, well-being

Published February 21, 2012 in the Commercial Appeal

As access to fresh, seasonal foods expands, many, including some Memphians, are taking a new approach to mealtime and grocery shopping that benefits not only their families, but the community as well.

Ditching processed, packaged and refined foods, they are seeking to put only wholesome, natural foods, dairy and whole grains prepared from scratch -- real food -- on their tables.

Many families are participating in movements with names like "100 Days of Real Food" or "The Real Food Challenge" to reinvent mealtime in a more healthful and Earth-friendly manner. Others take a less formal approach.

Miriam Wrye lives in East Memphis and is a stay-at-home mom to three young children.

"Meal planning and grocery shopping are two of my main 'jobs,' " she says.

She tries to buy as much whole food as possible because it has the most nutrients, and she believes it's best for her family's health.

"Raw fruits and veggies are the best, but even cooking these from their fresh state is better than getting them canned or packaged," Wrye says.

Wrye tries to put something fresh and green on the table every evening, like leafy greens or raw vegetables.

"I am learning to shop only the perimeters of the grocery store, where you find the freshest stuff like produce, eggs, meats and dairy. I also do my best to eat local and in-season," she says.

She believes her shopping habits boost the local economy: "Eating in-season is also fresher and cheaper than other produce that has been brought in from another country."

Wrye says there are lots of benefits of eating fresh, including improving our farming and food industry and helping our planet stay green and healthy.

"The biggest benefit is the gift of health when you choose to eat food that is closest to how nature has presented it," she says. "You get more vitamin and nutrient benefits than taking supplements alone."

Angie Stewart Forrester, a local food blogger, also tries to eat as many fruits and vegetables as she can, with an emphasis on what's in-season right now.

"This week, my husband and I are doing a take on spinach and mushroom quesadillas with mustard greens and wild mushrooms," she says.

When the farmers markets are open, Forrester buys the majority of her fruits and vegetables there. She also shops at The Fresh Market and Whole Foods because of their corporate buying policies that include regulation of GMOs (genetically modified organisms) and certified humanely raised meats.

"Fresh foods taste better and are so much healthier for us," she says.

Forrester loves to cook and believes it gives her more control of flavors.

"When I cook, there's less sodium and less artificial flavors and chemicals than the prepackaged and highly overprocessed foods," she says.

Leigh Espy, a project manager who lives in Midtown with her husband and young daughter, recently adopted a diet that is a mix between the popular "paleo" and "primal" diets.

"The paleo and primal diets stress real foods, and meats without growth hormones and antibiotics, rather than processed foods," Espy says. "I now really just shop from the outside grocery aisles, and cook a lot."

She says she misses easy snacks like protein bars and granola bars.

"Giving up wheat was difficult -- no bread for sandwiches and no Memphis Pizza Café pizza!" Espy says.

She has discovered some tricks, like using eggplant in place of lasagna noodles, and prepping vegetables ahead for cooking later to save time. Espy cooks in bulk, so she always has leftovers to grab for lunch or another dinner. She keeps apples and almonds around for easy snacks.

"I was a pescatarian, so adding bacon back to my diet after 20 years was my compensation for giving up wheat," she says. Now that Espy is eating beef and pork, she buys hormone-free and antibiotic-free as much as possible, and buys at local farmers markets as much as she can.

Espy says she feels more clear-headed, her digestive problems are gone, and she handles stress better. She believes her transition to the diet was so successful because it started as a 30-day challenge from her trainer, Dexter Tennison, at Memphis Adventure Bootcamp.

"After the 30-day challenge was over, I felt so amazing that I decided to stay with it," Espy says.

Amy Pickle, who lives in Midtown and runs her own business, Pickle I.T., also found a link between her health and the way she eats.

Growing up, she would go to her grandparents' house every Sunday for pot roast, candied sweet potatoes, cornbread, blacked-eyed peas with fatback and butter beans. Around age 17, she started to make the connection between the her post-lunch "food coma" and the pot roast.

"I would literally be knocked out for hours after her meals," Pickle says. She became a vegetarian that year, much to the dismay of her Southern family. Then at 42, after feeling adverse effects from cheese, eggs and sugar, she became vegan.

"I find that a diet rich in whole foods -- foods that occur naturally in nature, not processed, abstinence from flour, sugar, dairy and meat, gives me tons more energy -- not nervous energy, but calm energy," she says.

Pickle believes processed foods create a heavy or toxic feeling in the body, in that they are filled with corn syrups that cause spikes in blood sugar and create an endless cycle of craving, eating and crashing.

"Eating mindfully has created a whole new relationship with food," Pickle says. "I no longer live to eat; I eat to live. I eat to sustain my body and mind in the most optimal way possible, to ensure a healthy body, mind and spirit."

"Whatever I buy at the market dictates what I'm going to cook for the rest of the week," she says. "This means that I cook along with the seasons, too."

"The health benefits are tremendous, as is the flavor of food," Pickle says. "Food tastes so much better when the ingredients have just been picked at their peak. Buying food locally helps create sustainability within a community. When we support local farmers, we support Memphis."

More information

100daysofrealfood.com

realfoodchallenge.com

Hunny's Buns

Hunny's Buns
Published February 9, 2012 in the Memphis Flyer

Chef Marisa Baggett, best known for her sushi skills, has cooked up a new side venture she's calling Hunny's Buns. She's baking fresh yeast buns and packing them with savory fillings. (She also plans to add salty sweet candies and "otherwise intriguing treats" to her offerings.) The five flavors currently available are Asian barbecue pork, chicken kimchee, Japanese-style curry vegetable, orange duck, and mustard pretzel. These are not your typical buns. They are a gourmet version of the steamed buns found in Asian markets. My favorite is the Asian barbecue pork, which is bursting with tender roasted pork tenderloin tossed in a sweet, sesame-scented barbecue sauce. Think of it as the cutest, neatest barbecue sandwich ever. More adventurous eaters will enjoy the chicken kimchee, which includes spicy cabbage, and the orange duck, which includes candied ginger and orange peel. Those who are looking for something a little more standard will appreciate the mustard pretzels that include Chinese hot mustard and hot dogs. (Soy dogs available by request.) Hunny's Buns are $12 per half-dozen and $22 per dozen. — Stacey Greenberg

Hunny's Buns: Order online via Facebook or email orderhunnysbuns@gmail.com

Eco-engaged: More couples find the outdoors a nurturing environment for romance

Published January 10, 2011 in the Commercial Appeal

Romance has gone green -- at least among active, environmentally conscious couples.

Austin Grisham and Lindsay Morris had their first date on the Shelby Farms Greenline.

Although they both grew up in Memphis, they got to know each other about a year and a half ago over the phone. Morris was living in Portland, Ore., working as a teacher in an after-school community outreach program, and mutual friends suggested Grisham contact her, since he was considering a move to the area for graduate school.

"A month after I moved to Portland, a random guy contacted me about graduate school and Portland in general," Morris said. "We continued talking, and when I came home to Memphis for Christmas in 2010, we decided to meet," says Morris.

Grisham and Morris are both active cyclists and runners, and Grisham knew that Morris and her family often walked on the Greenline, so it seemed like a good place for a first date.

About a year later, it seemed like an even better place to propose.

"I started planning the engagement in August," says Grisham, who lives in Portland and is a recruitment specialist for an interpretation company.

Grisham had talked to Morris's dad and arranged for the whole family to take a walk over the Thanksgiving holiday break.

Grisham had secretly flown into town the night before the walk was to happen. Morris and her family were to walk east along the Greenline and Grisham would walk west.

Morris and her family walked for about 15-20 minutes, "then my dad stopped me and said, 'This is it.' " She looked up and saw

Grisham running toward her. He got down on his knee and proposed.

Their wedding will be at Hope Presbyterian Church, where Morris's dad is a minister, but they hope to have the rehearsal dinner at Shelby Farms Park.

Jen Andrews, the director of communications for Shelby Farms Park Conservancy says, "One of our taglines is 'Love the Park,' and we're happy to see people are taking it literally!"

The conservancy has seen an uptick in both inquiries about park weddings and people having their weddings and receptions there.

"We've gone from hosting a few a year to 18 weddings in 2011," says Andrews.

In addition to more weddings and receptions than ever, the conservancy is hearing more and more from people getting engaged at the park -- and now on the Greenline.

"Last year, a couple got engaged at our Off-Leash Dog Park. We had several people pop the question at Starry Nights. Marriage is a big deal, and we think more park and Greenline users than ever are interested in making this commitment at a place that's meaningful to them, surrounded by natural beauty," she says.

One of the ways the conservancy is able to earn money for the operations and maintenance needs is through facility rentals (indoor board rooms, outdoor picnic shelters, races and walks). "We've been working hard to increase facility rentals across the board, and they're very popular. We keep our prices fair and scale them according to the size of the event and number of guests, and we think people like knowing that the money they're going to spend to have their wedding goes back to help the park and Greenline they love," says Andrews.

The park conservancy hopes to continue its relationship with these couples forever. Andrews says, "We want to host the baby shower, bar mitzvah and 50th wedding anniversary."

Other scenic venues are also becoming more popular for weddings. Pat Vescovo, director of sales at the Memphis Botanic Garden, says, "We've shown an increase over the past couple of years in garden weddings, especially due to new areas we've added that are designed to create special backdrops for the ceremonies. Our Blecken Pavilion and Japanese Garden are two of the most popular spots for weddings."

Bobbie Baker, the special events coordinator at Lichterman Nature Center, says she has noticed an increase in the number of outdoor weddings as well.

"With the advent of social media websites like Facebook and smartphones, brides as well as their guests may share their wedding photos instantaneously. Today's brides are looking for something new, nontraditional and 'photo-worthy.' "

Baker believes outdoor weddings in a setting as lovely as Lichterman offer photo opportunities that no indoor structure may provide no matter how grand the architecture, and adds, "With a growing 'green' social consciousness amongst those under 30, couples are using their wedding ceremonies as a way to establish their commitment to the environment as they begin their lives together."

Fries with That?

Published January 4, 2011 in the Memphis Flyer

The French fry has been getting some extra love and attention at local restaurants, and patrons are taking note. It's hard to narrow down the contenders to a top tier, but Fuel Café, Slider Inn (which is related to Bardog Tavern), and the Brass Door have really done the potato proud and are worth a taste.

At Fuel Café and in the Fuel Food Truck, the French fries are downright pampered. Owner and chef Erik Proveaux has put a lot of time and energy into creating the perfect fry. "I like them to be crispy on the outside, not greasy, and fluffy on the inside with just the right golden-brown color," Proveaux says. To this end, he has developed a process that yields pretty consistent results.

First, he takes good old Idaho potatoes and cuts them using a wall-mounted French fry cutter. He lets them fall into a bus tub of cold water to soak for at least two hours. Then they are drained and dried on a sheet pan with paper towels. Next, he par-fries them in 300-degree peanut oil and lays them out on sheet pans to cool in front of a fan until they get to room temperature. He wraps the sheet pans, freezes the fries, and later brings them back out to thaw only enough to be separated and bagged up for use on the line.

"They are held in a small freezer in the kitchen, and when we get an order, we fry them to golden-brown deliciousness and toss them in fine sea salt," Proveaux says.

For those who like fancy dipping sauces with their fancy fries, Fuel has them covered. They serve a plate of fries with three dipping sauces: a creamy truffle Parmesan sauce, a garlicky rouille (homemade olive-oil mayonnaise with smoked paprika and chipotle powder), and sweet chili ketchup sauce.

Bardog Tavern and Slider Inn owner Aldo Dean says that he got into the restaurant business to sell alcohol. Since Tennessee laws require bars to sell food, Dean figured he might as well serve great food.

Bardog and Slider Inn serve the same fries except the ones at Slider Inn have a little skin on them.

"They're quarter-inch shoestrings that are shipped in frozen and already cut," Dean says. Dean likes the shoestring fries because they don't have a long fry time. "Some places double fry them for extra crispiness, but we don't have time for that," he says.

What really sets the fries apart is the special mixture sprinkled on them when they come out. "It's a secret blend. I can't tell you what it is," Dean says. After a pause, he says, "Okay, it's salt and sugar — a 50-50 mix."

Dean will not, however, divulge the exact recipe of the legendary bourbon mayonnaise used for dipping. "I should probably get it patented," he jokes. It was inspired by a dip he had in a Belgian restaurant called Pomme Frite. Both of Dean's restaurants sell a ton of fries, but Slider Inn sells considerably more due to its more limited menu.

The fries at the Irish pub the Brass Door are also making a name for themselves. Rumor has it that the secret ingredient is duck fat. "It's all true," owner Seamus Loftis says. "But I cannot credit the Irish — only my chef, Scott Donnelly."

Donnelly starts with hand-cut Idaho potatoes, blanches them, and then fries them in a combination of regular fryer oil, lard, and duck fat. "The duck fat and lard impart a slightly sweeter, more potato-y flavor and help get the potato crunchy on the outside and creamy on the inside," Donnelly says.

The restaurant is currently selling about 500 to 600 pounds of French fries a week. "The hardest part is blanching and frying at the right temperatures," Donnelly says.

The fries are available as a side or a starter. The starter features a savory house-made curry sauce.

River Romance

Published January 1, 2012 in the Commercial Appeal

Today, Nola and Tom McKnight celebrate 70 years of marriage.

And it all traces back to an encounter on the Mississippi River.

In the summer of 1940, Nola came to Memphis from her home in Dyersburg to look for a job. She stayed with a well-known Realtor, and her son, Spence Baker.

Baker thought Nola should meet his friend Tom McKnight, so one Saturday afternoon he told her that they should go out on the Mississippi River and wait for Tom.

Nola thought it was a terrible idea, as she was in her high heels, gloves and hat. But she finally agreed, so they went out in Baker's runabout into the middle of the Mississippi River.

A short while later Tom showed up in a Chris Craft runabout that Buddy McKnight, Tom's brother, kept at the Memphis Yacht Club, which was very active at the time. The two were introduced, but neither one was much impressed.

"We really just held on to each other's boats," recalls Nola.

"Spence was known for his women," explains Tom. "I didn't think much about it. I thought it was just another one of his girls."

For two weeks, Baker kept after Tom to ask Nola out, so to shut him up, Tom called Nola for a date. She accepted, and on their first date Tom showed up on his Harley Davidson motorcycle -- and they went back down to the river. "We anchored on a sandbar, climbed up it and courted, as they say," says Nola.

A full moon, the Harley, and the river created a memorable first date, so much so that they dated constantly after that night. "That did it. That sealed it. Everything just worked for us," says Nola.

Less than a month before the wedding, however, Pearl Harbor was attacked. Since Tom had received an Army second lieutenant's commission from Davidson College, they knew he would be called to active duty. But that did not deter them, and they went on with the preparations.

They were married at Central Christian Church on Jan. 1, 1942. And Tom went on to serve in the military for four years.

Nola credits their long marriage to the fact that they enjoy doing the same things and enjoy doing them together. Although both in their 90s, they stay very active. "Tom and I do whatever comes up that we want to do. It could be one thing one day, and another the next," says Nola.

Tom says they take one day at a time, and just love each other. "She's the greatest gal that ever was," says Tom. "If you get a good one you might as well keep her."

Both say they have had a wonderful life, blessed from the very beginning. They have two sons, three grandsons and four great-grandchildren.

To celebrate their big day, Tom and Nola are hosting an open house from 3 to 5 p.m. today, which is the same time as their wedding. Tom says they are expecting 30-40 people, mostly from the neighborhood and Sunday school. "We both have a few things we're going to say," hints Nola. "We'll sip champagne and have a nice afternoon," adds Tom.

As for their matchmaker, Spence Baker, Tom says he was married three times. "We always joke that he did much better with us than he did with himself," says Tom.

The Trees Rejoice

Published January 1, 2012 in Edible Memphis