B.Y.O. (Build Your Own) Sandwich at Bleu

Published August 30, 2012 in the Memphis Flyer

Many fast-food-style delis allow customers to basically build their own sandwiches. Bleu, located in the Westin Hotel, has taken this idea and put an upscale spin on it with the B.Y.O. sandwich. At lunch, customers can follow an easy eight-step process to create the sandwich of their dreams. A quick glance at Step 1: Choose Your Protein and you know already that you're going to have a great sandwich. Among the choices: Black Angus beef, marinated chicken breast, ahi tuna, fried catfish, portabello mushroom cap, or sliced sirloin. Aw, yeah. From there, you choose the way you want your protein cooked and what you want it served on. (My personal favorite is a grilled cheese bun.) Then it's time to choose a fancy sauce and a fancy cheese, if you so desire. Step 6 allows you to add any three of the following: iceberg lettuce, arugula, sliced pickles, cole slaw, Bermuda onions, jalapenos, caramelized onion, sauteed mushrooms, tomatoes, and roasted red peppers. Step 7 — premium toppings — is arguably the best, even if it costs an extra $1. Choose to add avocado, fried egg, applewood-smoked bacon, onion rings, or fried tomato. Step 8 is all about the sides: hand-cut fries, potato salad, fruit cup, sweet potato fries, or cole slaw. The trick, of course, is to not get carried away or overthink it. And if at first you don't succeed in building the best sandwich ever, you can always try again. — Stacey Greenberg

Bleu, 221 S. 3rd (334-5950)

bleumemphis.com

Salt & Pepper Shrimp at Evelyn & Olive

Published August 16, 2012 in the Memphis Flyer

There's an unwritten rule at Evelyn & Olive, downtown's Jamaican and Southern-style restaurant and wine bar: Everything tastes better with a little Boom Boom sauce. Made from chili peppers, garlic, mayonnaise, tomato, and pickle, it's a cross between traditional hot sauce and remoulade. Not too spicy and full of flavor, it definitely makes every dish sing a little louder. My favorite pairing is with the Salt & Pepper Shrimp. Very lightly breaded and fried, the crispy white shrimp serve as the perfect vehicle for the Boom Boom sauce. Listed as a starter, the Salt & Pepper Shrimp is a great way to start the meal with friends. However, the generous serving can also make a great entrée, if, like me, you find it hard to share.

Kale Chips

Published June 28, 2012 in the Memphis Flyer

The Cosmic Coconut is an all vegan, all organic juice bar, which is pretty otherworldly for Memphis. I've been a fan since day one and often pop in for a Go Green (cucumber, apple, celery, ginger, chard, lemon) juice when I'm running errands out east. On my last few visits, I've also picked up an order of their delicious kale chips. I know, right? Kale and chips don't even belong in the same sentence, but they taste so good it is easy to forget that they derive from a vegetable. The kale is coated in dressing and then put in a dehydrator overnight. The dressing is definitely the secret here. Made from shredded coconut, cashews, garlic, lime, lemon, sea salt, ginger, cayenne, black pepper, carrots, nutritional yeast, and Mexican fiesta seasoning, it is a little sweet, a little spicy, and also quite tangy. After the initial crunch, the chips basically melt in your mouth. Seriously, a vegetable has never tasted this good. — Stacey Greenberg

The Cosmic Coconut, 5101 Sanderlin (729-7134)

Hunny's Buns

Hunny's Buns
Published February 9, 2012 in the Memphis Flyer

Chef Marisa Baggett, best known for her sushi skills, has cooked up a new side venture she's calling Hunny's Buns. She's baking fresh yeast buns and packing them with savory fillings. (She also plans to add salty sweet candies and "otherwise intriguing treats" to her offerings.) The five flavors currently available are Asian barbecue pork, chicken kimchee, Japanese-style curry vegetable, orange duck, and mustard pretzel. These are not your typical buns. They are a gourmet version of the steamed buns found in Asian markets. My favorite is the Asian barbecue pork, which is bursting with tender roasted pork tenderloin tossed in a sweet, sesame-scented barbecue sauce. Think of it as the cutest, neatest barbecue sandwich ever. More adventurous eaters will enjoy the chicken kimchee, which includes spicy cabbage, and the orange duck, which includes candied ginger and orange peel. Those who are looking for something a little more standard will appreciate the mustard pretzels that include Chinese hot mustard and hot dogs. (Soy dogs available by request.) Hunny's Buns are $12 per half-dozen and $22 per dozen. — Stacey Greenberg

Hunny's Buns: Order online via Facebook or email orderhunnysbuns@gmail.com

BÁnh MÌ at Pho Saigon

Published December 8, 2011 in the Memphis Flyer



If you like barbecue sandwiches with hot sauce and cole slaw, then you absolutely have to try a bánh mì sandwich. It takes this hot/sweet/savory combination to the next level. Most Vietnamese restaurants offer bánh mì sandwiches, whether they are on the menu or not. Although bánh mì is technically the term for any type of bread, it is commonly used to denote a small baguette. The small, crunchy baguette is the foundation of the sandwich, which usually includes liver pâté, sliced pork, steamed pork roll, cucumber, pickled carrots and daikon radish, sliced cucumbers, sliced jalapenos, and fresh cilantro. Pho Saigon has taken the bánh mì to the next level by including a layer of crispy and flavorful barbecued pork rather than the typically bland sliced pork used in other restaurants. They also make their own pâté from ground pork and tomatoes. These substitutions make it a bit more amenable to the American, er, Memphis palate. At $3.99 a pop, there really is no excuse for not trying one.
— Stacey Greenberg

Pho Saigon, 2946 Poplar (458-1644)

Tom's Tiny Kitchen Pimento Cheese

Published November 17, 2011 in the Memphis Flyer

Something is happening in Tom Flournoy's "tiny kitchen." He's found a way to make pimento cheese taste good. Real good. It's full of thickly shredded, sharp cheddar cheese, mayonnaise, pimentos, onions, and spices. That's it. Now, I know there are fans out there who think pimento cheese tastes good no matter what, but those of us who thought we didn't like it have suddenly had to change our tune. Had "Tom's Son" (that's what his name tag said) not given me a free sample at the Cooper-Young Farmer's Market a few weeks ago, I am sure I wouldn't have even tried it, much less purchased a $7 tub of it. Before I could complete my transaction, two ladies from Cordova came up. They had run out of the delicious sandwich spread and needed more. Now! Tom's Son wasn't surprised. Apparently, the city is full of die-hard fans of Tom's Tiny Kitchen pimento cheese. Available at Miss Cordelia's, High Point Grocery, and SuperLo Foods on Spottswood.

Tom's Tiny Kitchen, tjflournoy@gmail.com (569-7677)

Vegetarian Cheese and Walnut Loaf Sandwich at Fuel

Published September 8, 2011 in the Memphis Flyer



The vegetarian cheese and walnut loaf sandwich at Fuel isn't something that I would normally order. Chef Carrie Mitchum, who is a vegan, definitely has a magic touch. The loaf is basically her mom's meatloaf recipe, minus the beef, with walnuts substituted. It's a combination of oats, ground walnuts, cheddar cheese, spices, and onions. It's bound with egg then glazed with ketchup and brown sugar. You can order it hot or cold, but as good as it is, I can't imagine eating it cold. The sandwich can be made on white, wheat, or a baguette, and the bread is grilled on the flat top with a little olive oil. It's dressed with Fuel's signature burger sauce (ketchup, mayo, Dijon mustard, and horseradish), lettuce, tomato, and a dash of sweet chili sauce. It seems like a lot for one sandwich, but everything fits neatly into place and tastes fantastic. This flavorful sammy costs $10 and comes with your choice of fries (Fuel has great hand-cut fries), salad, or chips. Serious fans of the loaf can get a larger serving for dinner with mashed potatoes, green vegetables, and mushroom gravy for $16. — Stacey Greenberg

Fuel Café, 1761 Madison (725-9025) fuelcafememphis.com

Key Lime Pie Ice Cream at La Michoacana

Published September 1, 2011 in the Memphis Flyer


It's pretty ridiculous how often I go to La Michoacana for paletas. Owner Rafael Gonzalez, seemingly stunned, finally said to me, "You don't like ice cream?" I'd tried a few tastes here and there, but I was so focused on the rainbow of frozen pops in the front of the store, I couldn't be persuaded to go any further. Well, big mistake. The ice cream is even better than the paletas. The base for the ice cream and the paletas de leche (creamy pops) is the same, but the ice cream is simply amazing and completely different from the standard fare elsewhere. It's super creamy yet still light and fluffy. Like the paletas, it is made fresh every day, and that must be the secret to its awesomeness. I'm currently obsessed with the key lime pie, which has the perfect key lime flavor — not too tart, not too sweet. Crumbled cookies (or "crust") are layered throughout, making this treat better than an actual slice of pie. I like to savor each bite, making sure to get a bit of crust each time. It's the perfect treat.

La Michoacana, 4091 Summer

Newman Farms Berkshire Pork Tacos at Las Tortugas

Published June 9, 2011 in the Memphis Flyer

Just when I thought that Las Tortugas couldn't get any better, they started adding locally sourced meats to the menu. Owner Pepe Magallanes and his son Jonathan were already very particular about every ingredient they used, shopping each morning before the store opened to find the perfect ingredients. Adding Newman Farms pork and Neola Farms beef takes everything up another notch. On a recent visit, I tried the Newman Farms Berkshire pork tacos and was blown away. Pepe and his crew obviously spent a great deal of time cooking the meat to perfection. Marinated in citrus juices and slow-cooked, it's crispy on the outside and tender on the inside. Once shredded and put into corn tortillas with crema, spicy chile sauce, cilantro, onions, and avocadoes, it's almost too good to be true. At $11.95, it is one of the more expensive items on the menu, but each order includes four tacos, lettuce and cucumber salad, homemade chips, salsa, and avocado sauce. I'm a firm believer that the offerings at Las Tortugas are better fit for fine china than plastic baskets, but I'm happy to be able to enjoy them in such a warm and inviting atmosphere.

BLFGT Salad at Felicia Suzanne’s

Published May 26, 2011 in the Memphis Flyer

The BLFGT Salad at Felicia Suzanne's — OMG! This Souththern take on the traditional BLT sandwich features fried green tomatoes rather than regular ol' tomatoes, which negates the need for bread and makes it one amazing salad. All the ingredients are stellar, but the thick yet crispy Newman Farms bacon is out of this world. Two perfectly fried tomatoes are stacked with strips of bacon and a layer of cheese (the menu reads fresh mozzarella, but I could swear mine had homemade pimento cheese), topped with a heap of baby mixed greens tossed in a delicious rémoulade dressing. The savory and salty crunch of the bacon mixed with the firm sweetness of the tomatoes and the slight kick of the dressing is outstanding. The BLFGT is available on the dinner menu and the Friday lunch menu for $12. It's the perfect middle to a long, leisurely dinner but can also hold its own as a full meal during lunch.

Seared Salmon at Cafe 1912

Published April 14, 2011 in the Memphis Flyer

I'm pretty sure that there's only one place that can put salmon and raisins in the same sentence and make it sound good: Café 1912. The seared salmon on sautéed spinach with pine nuts, golden raisins, and olive tapenade is a testament to the restaurant's consistency and creativity. The dish is hearty, earthy, and full of flavor. The spinach, perfectly cooked and easy to chew, forms the base. The filet of salmon, which is covered with the rich, black-olive tapenade, rests on top. The golden raisins, accompanied by pine nuts, are sprinkled around the dish to add even more texture and flavor. As a bonus, these ingredients — many of which top the "super foods" lists from year to year — are full of nutrients. This is definitely a dish to enjoy and truly make your mother proud. — Stacey Greenberg

Granola and Yogurt at Cafe Eclectic

Published March 3, 2011 in the Memphis Flyer

On Café Eclectic's breakfast menu, near the bottom, you will see a very unassuming listing for granola and yogurt. "Homemade granola with nuts, fresh berries, and homemade yogurt," it reads. It's easy to brush past it, maybe saying to yourself, "I can eat that at home." Well, no, you can't. The "homemade" part is what makes this dish exceptional. I have had my share of granola, but never before have I tasted any as scrumptious as this. Oats, sunflower seeds, sesame seeds, almond slivers, dried apricots, golden raisins (and probably a few other ingredients I missed) are drenched in honey and baked to a warm, chewy perfection. They pile the granola on top of perfectly made yogurt that is rich and creamy and just a little tart. Then they top it with beautiful fresh berries — strawberries, blueberries, and blackberries — not an easy task this time of year. The resulting combination is simply exquisite. I've been dreaming of this dish since my first taste. Thankfully, Café Eclectic starts serving at 7 a.m., and the granola and yogurt is available all day. (For a small: $3.50; large: $5.95.)

The Firecracker at Elliott’s

Published December 30, 2010 in the Memphis Flyer

There are a lot of things I love about Elliott's. Because of limited space, I will list my top two: 1) Harry (owner Helario Reyna) is always adding new and exciting items to the menu, and 2) you can get something totally decadent like homemade beef tamales smothered in cheese, sour cream, and jalapeno or something deliciously health-conscious like a wrap. I have recently fallen in love with the Firecracker, which has replaced the Santa Fe as my favorite wrap. It contains sliced, grilled chicken breast, julienned carrots, Thai basil, chopped cabbage, diced green peppers, chopped peanuts, bean sprouts, and spicy Thai chili sauce. It's fresh, crunchy, and has an explosive taste thanks to the chili sauce. Not to mention, the Firecracker is everything you could ever want in a sandwich: healthy, cheap, and easy to eat. Try it.

Pizza at Trolley Stop

Pizza at Trolley Stop
Published December 2, 2010 in the Memphis Flyer

Okay, I'm just going to lay down the gauntlet. There isn't a slice of pizza in town consistently as good as the slices at Trolley Stop Market. The fresh ingredients trucked over from Whitton Farms and the extra love from Jillbilly's kitchen surely give it an unfair advantage. The crust is true perfection. It's New York-style, so it's thin and it bends, but it is sturdy enough to hold up to the weight of the toppings, cheese, and sauce. Oh, the sauce! Fresh and flavorful but not overpowering. Each slice always has the perfect amount of cheese, and you can be assured that it will string out in front of you with every bite. As far as the toppings go, you can't go wrong. Pizzas are made all day long and come out with everything from farm-fresh squash, yellow cherry tomatoes, herbs, and a medley of mushrooms to the standard pepperoni. If you want one made especially for you, they'll do that too. Order a slice, and it will easily be the best $3.50 you ever spent. But take it from me, go ahead and order two. — Stacey Greenberg

Trolley Stop Market, 704 Madison (526-1361)...(See photo)

Stop, Drop, and Roll at Pacific Rim

Stop, Drop, and Roll at Pacific Rim
Published September 23, 2009 in the Memphis Flyer

One of my favorite rolls at Sekisui Pacific Rim isn’t actually on the sushi menu. The Stop, Drop, and Roll is listed as an appetizer — most likely due to the fact that it contains neither seaweed nor rice. Yellow fin tuna, avocado, cucumber, and romaine lettuce are wrapped in rice paper, sprinkled with cayenne pepper, and served standing in a puddle of ponzu sauce (made from soy, lemon juice, and rice wine vinegar). Believe it or not, what holds this roll together is mayonnaise. Yes, mayonnaise. But not just any mayo. It’s Kewpie, a special, Japanese variety often found in Sekisui’s rolls. The “mouth feel” is magnificent. The crispiness of the romaine and cucumber superbly balances the delicious squish of the avocado and melt-in-your-mouth premium tuna. The cayenne pepper gives this wrap a fiery touch, hence the reference to fire safety in the roll’s name. Feel free to treat the ponzu sauce as your personal fire extinguisher...(See picture here).

Vegetarian Sandwich at Yang's Deli

Vegetarian Sandwich at Yang's Deli
Publsihed September 16, 2009 in the Memphis Flyer

The first-time visitor to Yang’s Deli on Summer will no doubt be overwhelmed by the choices. The extensive menu features a variety of subs, salads, fried delights, and Chinese food. The chaotic interior is filled with plastic-coated pictures of everything from fried shrimp baskets to shrimp lo mein. I certainly found myself at a loss when presented with so many options.

Friends, who are loyal patrons, prodded me to use the drive-thru and order the muffuletta or, better yet, the vegetarian sandwich. I listened. The aging drive-thru was more like an obstacle course but in that charming Summer Avenue way. After a short wait in which I watched a young man craft my lunch, a smiling woman presented me with the vegetarian sandwich. It’s a hoagie with grilled veggies — sautéed mushrooms, onions, and bell peppers — topped with melted cheese and lettuce. After one bite, my husband noted, “It’s like they put Chinese food on a bun.” Suddenly, the marriage of Chinese restaurant and sub shop made sense...(See picture here).

Cherry Sno Cone Supreme

Published August 7, 2009 in the Memphis Flyer

Jerry’s Sno Cones is the perfect place to reward yourself for surviving a sultry day in the Mid-South. While there, you are sure to see many other survivors slurping ice cream and sno-cones or wolfing down chili cheese fries and burgers. On your first visit, you may feel overwhelmed by the myriad choices of flavors and combinations. The menu’s additions, haphazardly taped to the windows, and the sugar-buzzed people surrounding you — all of them enjoying a different delight — will not make your decision-making any easier.

What to get? It comes down to three things: a swish, a supreme, or a cream. A swish is a creamy treat resulting from a sno-cone being blended with soft-serve ice cream. The supreme is a sno-cone with a large dollop of ice cream on top. A cream is a sno-cone with whipped cream on top. It’s a hard call, but I think the supreme is the way to go. Scooping out varying ratios of ice cream and sno-cone is incredibly satisfying to me. Wedding Cake is Jerry’s most popular flavor, but I like regular old cherry.

Sopa Pollo at Rio Loco

Sopa Pollo at Rio Loco
Published June 17, 2009 in the Memphis Flyer

Traditionally when I go to a Mexican restaurant, it’s all about the chips and dip, burritos, chips and dip, big beers, chips and dip, margaritas, and chips and dip. On my last visit to Rio Loco, however, my companion threw me for a loop

by ordering a bowl of sopa pollo. Chicken soup? At a Mexican restaurant? Assured of its deliciousness, I ordered myself a bowl. I was pleased to discover that this was no ordinary chicken soup. Packed with chunks of chicken, rice, fresh tomatoes, onion, cilantro, and avocado, it had all my favorite Mexican flavors without the heaviness of, say, a steak burrito. It was delicious and satisfying. I left feeling full but not stuffed, which may be a first for me at a Mexican restaurant. — Stacey Greenberg

Rio Loco, 117 Union (523-2142)...(See the picture here)