Published in the Memphis Flyer, November 26, 2015
Winter is (supposedly) coming. If you can't get a fire going in your fireplace, you can at least get one going in your mouth. Hot wings and Gus's spicy chicken are good places to start, but we've got some other dishes worth seeking out.
I'm considering petitioning the courts to make it legal to marry soup. Specifically, Shang Hai's tofu curry soup, also known as T12 for its position on their Thai menu. Made with red curry and coconut milk, it is creamy and soothing. And spicy! If you ever feel a head cold coming on, this soup is for you. It opens up your sinuses and makes you feel gooood. Served with rice and full of lots and lots of tofu, it'll fill you up too. If the curry is too much for you, the tom yum soup is a great alternative. It's a bit lighter and more citrusy, but still packs a punch.
Shang Hai, 1400 Poplar, 722-8692
Move over kale, cauliflower is the next big thing in vegetables. The Honey Chilli Cauliflower at the Curry Bowl is absolutely worth the drive to Hacks Cross. (I have never said that about any other food before.) The Curry Bowl specializes in Southern Indian food, and the Indo Chinese section of the menu is full of delectable and fiery dishes. Battered and deep-fried, the cauliflower florets are coated in honey and chili peppers. The resulting flavor is somewhere between Buffalo chicken and lemongrass tofu. They easily pop into your mouth and light up your taste buds. Fowlatarians should not leave without trying the Chicken 65 (yogurt-marinated chicken with curry leaves and spices), 555-Chicken (pan-fried with cashews, chili, and garlic), Chilli Chicken (fried with ginger, garlic, onion, and bell pepper), and/or the Chicken Lilly Pop (prettiest chicken wings you ever saw). Before you know it, you'll be coming up with reasons to head East.
Curry Bowl, 4141 Hacks Cross, 207-6051, currybowlindiancuisine.com
For one last vegetarian sparkler, head over to Kwik Chek for the Bloody Valentine. Their muffalettas and Bi Bim Bop Burgers typically hog the spotlight, for good reason, but there's more to discover here. The Bloody Valentine is basically the Veggie Delight (hummus, cucumber sauce, Swiss and Parmesan cheeses, lettuce, tomato, onion, mushroom, bell pepper, jalapeño, and sprouts in a pita) but with habanero sauce instead of cucumber sauce. Aw, yeah. Once addicted to the habanero sauce, and you will be, go ahead and make your way through the menu, adding it to your order every time. The gyro is a good place to start.
Kwik Chek, 2013 Madison, 274-9293
Feeling saucy, but habanero sauce is too hardcore for you? Cozy Corner and The Bar-B-Que Shop both have killer hot sauces for their 'cue. Los Camales' salsa verde has heat and an amazing flavor. The housemade green sauce at Casablanca is vibrant and hot, also worthy of slathering on everything. Lotus has a homemade pepper sauce that is made from a variety of dissimilar peppers. A dollop usually comes on the side of most dishes.
What are you waiting for? Warmth is just a bite away.
Showing posts with label memphis flyer. Show all posts
Showing posts with label memphis flyer. Show all posts
Thursday, November 26, 2015
Tuesday, October 27, 2015
The Best Gluten-Free Pizza in Memphis
Published in the Memphis Flyer October 27, 2015
Has there ever been a more hated foodstuff than gluten?
The proliferation of gluten-free pizza on local menus is indicative of this ill will held by celiacs and gluten-intolerants alike. Heck, some people choose to be gluten-free (GF) just because they can! This is America after all.
When it comes to deciding who has the best gluten-free pizza in town, it's a hard thing to judge. Andria Brown, who was diagnosed with celiac disease a couple of years ago, explains, "Non-GF people just shouldn't eat it, and GF people's opinions vary depending on how long it's been since they had real pizza. In general, the thinner, crispier crusts are better because they're not trying to be soft and chewy."
Leigh Espy, who is gluten-intolerant, agrees. "Gluten-free crust is not the same — you don't get that lovely chewy texture, but I've always preferred the thin, crispy crust anyway."
Of course, depending on how much you hate gluten (and how much it hates you), cross-contamination factors must be considered as well. Here's an overview of your current options:
Mellow Mushroom
Annica Kreider, VP of brand development, says Mellow Mushroom began offering gluten-free crust several years ago as a result of requests from guests who were no longer able to enjoy pizza. It is celiac-safe. "We pride ourselves on this aspect of our program. Our cooks have been trained on the importance of preventing cross-contamination," Kreider says. The kitchen staff will wash their hands, put on fresh gloves and a fresh apron, and only use gluten-free dedicated cooking utensils and ingredients. Everything is made to order and prepared in a separate area. A screen pan is used during the baking process so the gluten-free crust never makes direct contact with the pizza stone. "While realizing that a gluten-free crust would likely never taste the same as our signature Mellow dough, our goal was to deliver a flavor profile that was just as delicious as our regular crust for the gluten-free audience," explains Kreider.
It has totally different ingredients from the regular crust, which is thicker. "A combination of ancient grains really gives it a delicious and hearty flavor, and it crisps up very nicely. We also were able to make it vegan in the reformulation," she says.
The crust is very popular, thanks to a dedicated marketing campaign.
mellowmushroom.com
Rock'n Dough Pizza Co.
Amanda Denno says at Rock'n Dough they had a substantial customer demand for a gluten-free and/or low-carb option. "Some people simply preferred to eat low-carb, and other people needed to avoid gluten due to dietary sensitivities or gluten allergies," she says.
They use a pizza crust mix from local Memphis company Nourishe and prepare it in-house. The crust mix itself is 100-percent gluten-free, however, Rock'n Dough prepares this dough mix in a kitchen where flour containing gluten is heavily used. Steps they take to minimize gluten cross-contamination include storing it separately from other ingredients in a sealed container and preparing the gluten- and grain-sensitive dough at different times than gluten-containing dough.
"We take care to minimize cross-contamination, but it is possible that small amounts of gluten do get incorporated. For this reason, we cannot guarantee the crust we serve in the restaurant is 100 percent gluten free," Denno says. This pizza crust is therefore not suitable for people with severe gluten allergies or reactions. It is listed as "gluten- and grain-sensitive" on the menu, and they train their staff to discuss the possibility of cross-contamination with their guests so they can be fully informed.
Denno says the crust tastes great. It contains nut, seed, and root vegetable flours and is naturally free from gluten, grains, and soy. It is also lower in carbohydrates than many other gluten-free products and is Paleo-diet friendly. "Nourishe specializes in great-tasting gluten-free products, and we specialize in great pizza — when you combine them, it is the best!" she says.
Rock'n Dough does not currently offer gluten-free on their food truck, but they do offer it for private catering events, where the menu is decided prior to the event.
rockndoughpizza.com
Pyro's Fire Fresh Pizza
Co-owner Chad Foreman says Pyro's offers a gluten-free crust that many guests, both those with celiac disease and those just wanting to minimize gluten in their diets, really like. "Our gluten-free crust is made with rice flour, and we offer to cook it in a pan for our more sensitive guests," he says.
However, they do not offer a 100-percent gluten-free experience. "We do not recommend any of our products for individuals that are extremely sensitive. Since we make our signature thin crust in-house everyday with flour and semolina, our restaurant has gluten particles everywhere, which makes cross-contamination virtually impossible to avoid," Foreman explains. This cross-contamination means that although their rice-based crust is gluten-free, most of the toppings and the oven they cook it in are not gluten-free.
Guests are pleasantly surprised by how light and airy the crust is.
pyrospizza.com
Russo's New York Pizzeria
Chef Anthony Russo spent two years perfecting the recipe for his gluten-free crust. The secret is that it is bound together with honey and a Sicilian olive oil made specifically for Russo's.
Jackson Lewis, the franchise's PR representative, says there is a serious need for great-tasting gluten-free options, and because of this, Russo's offers guests an entirely gluten-free menu. Additionally, the retail version of the gluten-free pizza is sold in 3,000 grocery stores across the United States.
Local franchise owner, Brett Steiner, says to prevent cross-contamination in the Germantown store, they keep the pizza crust in a separate cooler and change their gloves prior to making the order. The crust is very popular. They sell at least 50 a week.
nypizzeria.com
Hog & Hominy
Hog & Hominy makes its gluten-free dough in-house. For a $3 upcharge, all pizzas on the menu can be made gluten-free. They keep the dough separate and roll it separately, but it isn't guaranteed to be 100-percent safe for celiacs because regular flour is used throughout the kitchen.
hogandhominy.com
Ciao Bella
Ciao Bella orders a gluten-free, pre-baked, 12-inch crust from a company in New Jersey called Conte's Pasta through their specialty foods distributor. It is prepared with separate utensils, but it is prepared in the same pizza station as the rest of the pizzas and cooked and in the same pizza oven as everything else.
ciaobellamemphis.info
Memphis Pizza Cafe
MPC also orders a frozen gluten-free crust. Like Ciao Bella, they use separate utensils, but it is prepared and cooked in the same station/oven as regular pies.
memphispizzacafe.com
Chuck E. Cheese's
Chuck E. Cheese's has a gluten-free pizza that comes in a sealed, oven-safe bag. It isn't opened until it gets to the table, and a one-time-use pizza cutter is provided. It's celiac safe, but rumor has it, not very tasty!
chuckecheese.com
Has there ever been a more hated foodstuff than gluten?
The proliferation of gluten-free pizza on local menus is indicative of this ill will held by celiacs and gluten-intolerants alike. Heck, some people choose to be gluten-free (GF) just because they can! This is America after all.
When it comes to deciding who has the best gluten-free pizza in town, it's a hard thing to judge. Andria Brown, who was diagnosed with celiac disease a couple of years ago, explains, "Non-GF people just shouldn't eat it, and GF people's opinions vary depending on how long it's been since they had real pizza. In general, the thinner, crispier crusts are better because they're not trying to be soft and chewy."
Leigh Espy, who is gluten-intolerant, agrees. "Gluten-free crust is not the same — you don't get that lovely chewy texture, but I've always preferred the thin, crispy crust anyway."
Of course, depending on how much you hate gluten (and how much it hates you), cross-contamination factors must be considered as well. Here's an overview of your current options:
Mellow Mushroom
Annica Kreider, VP of brand development, says Mellow Mushroom began offering gluten-free crust several years ago as a result of requests from guests who were no longer able to enjoy pizza. It is celiac-safe. "We pride ourselves on this aspect of our program. Our cooks have been trained on the importance of preventing cross-contamination," Kreider says. The kitchen staff will wash their hands, put on fresh gloves and a fresh apron, and only use gluten-free dedicated cooking utensils and ingredients. Everything is made to order and prepared in a separate area. A screen pan is used during the baking process so the gluten-free crust never makes direct contact with the pizza stone. "While realizing that a gluten-free crust would likely never taste the same as our signature Mellow dough, our goal was to deliver a flavor profile that was just as delicious as our regular crust for the gluten-free audience," explains Kreider.
It has totally different ingredients from the regular crust, which is thicker. "A combination of ancient grains really gives it a delicious and hearty flavor, and it crisps up very nicely. We also were able to make it vegan in the reformulation," she says.
The crust is very popular, thanks to a dedicated marketing campaign.
mellowmushroom.com
Rock'n Dough Pizza Co.
Amanda Denno says at Rock'n Dough they had a substantial customer demand for a gluten-free and/or low-carb option. "Some people simply preferred to eat low-carb, and other people needed to avoid gluten due to dietary sensitivities or gluten allergies," she says.
They use a pizza crust mix from local Memphis company Nourishe and prepare it in-house. The crust mix itself is 100-percent gluten-free, however, Rock'n Dough prepares this dough mix in a kitchen where flour containing gluten is heavily used. Steps they take to minimize gluten cross-contamination include storing it separately from other ingredients in a sealed container and preparing the gluten- and grain-sensitive dough at different times than gluten-containing dough.
"We take care to minimize cross-contamination, but it is possible that small amounts of gluten do get incorporated. For this reason, we cannot guarantee the crust we serve in the restaurant is 100 percent gluten free," Denno says. This pizza crust is therefore not suitable for people with severe gluten allergies or reactions. It is listed as "gluten- and grain-sensitive" on the menu, and they train their staff to discuss the possibility of cross-contamination with their guests so they can be fully informed.
Denno says the crust tastes great. It contains nut, seed, and root vegetable flours and is naturally free from gluten, grains, and soy. It is also lower in carbohydrates than many other gluten-free products and is Paleo-diet friendly. "Nourishe specializes in great-tasting gluten-free products, and we specialize in great pizza — when you combine them, it is the best!" she says.
Rock'n Dough does not currently offer gluten-free on their food truck, but they do offer it for private catering events, where the menu is decided prior to the event.
rockndoughpizza.com
Pyro's Fire Fresh Pizza
Co-owner Chad Foreman says Pyro's offers a gluten-free crust that many guests, both those with celiac disease and those just wanting to minimize gluten in their diets, really like. "Our gluten-free crust is made with rice flour, and we offer to cook it in a pan for our more sensitive guests," he says.
However, they do not offer a 100-percent gluten-free experience. "We do not recommend any of our products for individuals that are extremely sensitive. Since we make our signature thin crust in-house everyday with flour and semolina, our restaurant has gluten particles everywhere, which makes cross-contamination virtually impossible to avoid," Foreman explains. This cross-contamination means that although their rice-based crust is gluten-free, most of the toppings and the oven they cook it in are not gluten-free.
Guests are pleasantly surprised by how light and airy the crust is.
pyrospizza.com
Russo's New York Pizzeria
Chef Anthony Russo spent two years perfecting the recipe for his gluten-free crust. The secret is that it is bound together with honey and a Sicilian olive oil made specifically for Russo's.
Jackson Lewis, the franchise's PR representative, says there is a serious need for great-tasting gluten-free options, and because of this, Russo's offers guests an entirely gluten-free menu. Additionally, the retail version of the gluten-free pizza is sold in 3,000 grocery stores across the United States.
Local franchise owner, Brett Steiner, says to prevent cross-contamination in the Germantown store, they keep the pizza crust in a separate cooler and change their gloves prior to making the order. The crust is very popular. They sell at least 50 a week.
nypizzeria.com
Hog & Hominy
Hog & Hominy makes its gluten-free dough in-house. For a $3 upcharge, all pizzas on the menu can be made gluten-free. They keep the dough separate and roll it separately, but it isn't guaranteed to be 100-percent safe for celiacs because regular flour is used throughout the kitchen.
hogandhominy.com
Ciao Bella
Ciao Bella orders a gluten-free, pre-baked, 12-inch crust from a company in New Jersey called Conte's Pasta through their specialty foods distributor. It is prepared with separate utensils, but it is prepared in the same pizza station as the rest of the pizzas and cooked and in the same pizza oven as everything else.
ciaobellamemphis.info
Memphis Pizza Cafe
MPC also orders a frozen gluten-free crust. Like Ciao Bella, they use separate utensils, but it is prepared and cooked in the same station/oven as regular pies.
memphispizzacafe.com
Chuck E. Cheese's
Chuck E. Cheese's has a gluten-free pizza that comes in a sealed, oven-safe bag. It isn't opened until it gets to the table, and a one-time-use pizza cutter is provided. It's celiac safe, but rumor has it, not very tasty!
chuckecheese.com
Friday, July 31, 2015
The Drinks of Summer
Published in the Memphis Flyer July 31, 2015
It's that time of year when no one wants to admit that it's too hot to sit on a patio and drink all day. Enter the drinks of summer.
Jameson Slushie
Slider Inn has an amazing patio — now with misters — and the absolute best way to enjoy it is with a Jameson Slushie (or two). The slushie consists of Barritt's Ginger Beer, house-made lemonade, delicious Jameson Irish Whiskey, and bitters. Depending on the glass situation, it either gets served in a branded Mason jar or a pint glass. (The latter is obviously the better deal.) At $9 a pop, Slider is selling upwards of 300 each week — the hotter the weather, the higher the sales. They are very drinkable, probably too drinkable. I can't imagine summer without them. I won't!
click to enlarge Slider Inn’s Jameson Slushie - JUSTIN FOX BURKS
Frozen Lemonades
The newly opened Mac's Burgers, which is out east in part of the former Dan McGuinness, is also selling freshly squeezed frozen lemonades — some with alcohol, some without. The virgin options include blueberry, strawberry, mango, peach, pomegranate, and pineapple — all made with freshly puréed fruit. Their spiked varieties ($8 to $11) include a Jameson Slush (sounds familiar!), Arnold Palmer Freeze (Tito's Vodka, lemonade, and iced tea), and Frozen Bellinis (peach lemonade with an inverted champagne split).
Boozy Milkshakes
Staying cool downtown requires a boozy milkshake. Oshi has six to choose from, and they are also available without alcohol, but where's the fun in that? Even the most lactose intolerant would be foolish to pass up the Kentucky Head Hunter. It's made with bourbon, apple brandy, vanilla ice cream, and bacon dust. Yes, bacon dust! It mostly tastes like frosty bourbon, which is awesome if you consider how much bourbon it takes to outshine the ice cream. Other popular shakes are the Malt Shoppe (vanilla ice cream, malted milk balls, bourbon) and the Godzilla (crème de menthe, Godiva white chocolate, vanilla ice cream, Oreo pieces). They're $10 a pop, $6 without booze.
Beer Floats
Beer drinkers need not feel left out. Hammer & Ale is serving beer floats ($6). Genius, right? There's only one flavor of ice cream — vanilla — but the choice of beer is up to you. (There are 24 to choose from, however, a dark or a sweet beer is recommended.) So far the most popular picks are the Gotta Get Up To Get Down Coffee Milk Stout from Wiseacre and the Illusive Traveler Grapefruit Shandy. Now that they serve food, you could have a beer float for dessert or just have one as a treat between regular beers. (Mexican soda and ginger beer are also available for teetotalers.)
Coffee Soda
And because we need a different kind of buzz on occasion, City & State is now offering house-made carbonated coffee sodas. Say it with me: coffee soda. The first, the Hampliner, is a carbonated iced coffee with pomegranate syrup, fresh lime, and maraschino cherries to top it off ($4.75). The second, the Purist, is carbonated iced coffee with simple syrup, lime juice, and lime slice for garnish ($4). The Hampliner is rich but not too sweet. It feels decadent, which is what summer is all about. Beware, the Purist may give you a grown-up feeling since you'll pat yourself on the back for being so smart and ordering it.
It's that time of year when no one wants to admit that it's too hot to sit on a patio and drink all day. Enter the drinks of summer.
Jameson Slushie
Slider Inn has an amazing patio — now with misters — and the absolute best way to enjoy it is with a Jameson Slushie (or two). The slushie consists of Barritt's Ginger Beer, house-made lemonade, delicious Jameson Irish Whiskey, and bitters. Depending on the glass situation, it either gets served in a branded Mason jar or a pint glass. (The latter is obviously the better deal.) At $9 a pop, Slider is selling upwards of 300 each week — the hotter the weather, the higher the sales. They are very drinkable, probably too drinkable. I can't imagine summer without them. I won't!
click to enlarge Slider Inn’s Jameson Slushie - JUSTIN FOX BURKS
Frozen Lemonades
The newly opened Mac's Burgers, which is out east in part of the former Dan McGuinness, is also selling freshly squeezed frozen lemonades — some with alcohol, some without. The virgin options include blueberry, strawberry, mango, peach, pomegranate, and pineapple — all made with freshly puréed fruit. Their spiked varieties ($8 to $11) include a Jameson Slush (sounds familiar!), Arnold Palmer Freeze (Tito's Vodka, lemonade, and iced tea), and Frozen Bellinis (peach lemonade with an inverted champagne split).
Boozy Milkshakes
Staying cool downtown requires a boozy milkshake. Oshi has six to choose from, and they are also available without alcohol, but where's the fun in that? Even the most lactose intolerant would be foolish to pass up the Kentucky Head Hunter. It's made with bourbon, apple brandy, vanilla ice cream, and bacon dust. Yes, bacon dust! It mostly tastes like frosty bourbon, which is awesome if you consider how much bourbon it takes to outshine the ice cream. Other popular shakes are the Malt Shoppe (vanilla ice cream, malted milk balls, bourbon) and the Godzilla (crème de menthe, Godiva white chocolate, vanilla ice cream, Oreo pieces). They're $10 a pop, $6 without booze.
Beer Floats
Beer drinkers need not feel left out. Hammer & Ale is serving beer floats ($6). Genius, right? There's only one flavor of ice cream — vanilla — but the choice of beer is up to you. (There are 24 to choose from, however, a dark or a sweet beer is recommended.) So far the most popular picks are the Gotta Get Up To Get Down Coffee Milk Stout from Wiseacre and the Illusive Traveler Grapefruit Shandy. Now that they serve food, you could have a beer float for dessert or just have one as a treat between regular beers. (Mexican soda and ginger beer are also available for teetotalers.)
Coffee Soda
And because we need a different kind of buzz on occasion, City & State is now offering house-made carbonated coffee sodas. Say it with me: coffee soda. The first, the Hampliner, is a carbonated iced coffee with pomegranate syrup, fresh lime, and maraschino cherries to top it off ($4.75). The second, the Purist, is carbonated iced coffee with simple syrup, lime juice, and lime slice for garnish ($4). The Hampliner is rich but not too sweet. It feels decadent, which is what summer is all about. Beware, the Purist may give you a grown-up feeling since you'll pat yourself on the back for being so smart and ordering it.
Thursday, May 28, 2015
Mac ‘n’ cheese is taking over local menus.
Move over, pimento cheese, macaroni and cheese is taking over local menus.
Published May 27, 2015 in the Memphis Flyer
Someone at Local Gastropub is a serious macaroni and cheese fan. Not only do they have Mac n' Gruyere Tots ($9) on the menu, they just added an entire Mac 'n' Cheese Bar.
Let's start with the tots. There are eight deep-fried and perfectly crispy balls to an order. They actually resemble hushpuppies more than tater tots. There's a little shaved Gruyere melted on top and a side of spicy marinara sauce. Inside the tot is where the magic happens. The macaroni and cheese is positively gooey and delicious. Assuming you don't pop the entire tot in your mouth, each bite leaves a nice string of melted cheese like a good slice of pizza. They taste pretty darn good on their own, but the marinara definitely takes them to the next level. So, to review: crispy, gooey, cheesy, saucy, yum!
Now about that Mac 'n' Cheese Bar. Their truffled mac 'n' cheese ($8) is the base. Then you have a number of toppings to add for an additional cost: lobster ($6), chorizo ($2), bacon ($2), short rib ($4), tasso ($3), and blue cheese ($2). I don't think you can go wrong with this list of toppings, only right. The extra cheesy mac 'n' cheese comes out in a skillet, the size of which depends on the number of toppings added. Rather than the standard elbow, the Mac 'n' Cheese Bar features a long corkscrew noodle which has many aliases (cavatappi, cellentani, amori, spirali, tortiglioni, and fusilli rigati). I added short ribs to my order and the result was decadent and beyond delicious. It took restraint to only add one topping. There is clearly potential here to eat the most amazing, not to mention expensive, mac 'n' cheese of your life.
The newly opened Skybox Grill & Bar in Collierville features macaroni & cheese eggrolls ($8) as an appetizer. Macaroni and cheese EGGROLLS! If that's not worth the trip east, I don't know what is. They are everything I'd hoped they'd be and more. There are two large eggrolls to an order and they come sliced diagonally so there are actually four pieces. (I guess this means they want you to share, which just seems wrong.) The cut allows you to see the curly goodness inside and they are a sight to behold. They aren't too cheesy and they also feature a longer corkscrew noodle rather than the standard elbow. The eggroll wrapper is super crispy, but in a flaky pie-crust way. These, too, taste great on their own, but it's hard to resist the tangy dipping sauces that accompany them. There's a zesty barbecue and a sweet & spicy "sirachi" sauce. Both get the thumbs up. Go on, drive to Collierville.
Finally, true mac 'n' cheese fans must try the Mac-N-Cheeseburger ($9.95) at LBOE. Like all burgers at LBOE, it features a lovely square ciabatta bun that is perfectly toasted and a nice, big never-frozen ground beef patty. On top of the meat is a nice scoop of homemade mac 'n' cheese with a nice helping of crumbled hardwood bacon. The mac 'n' cheese stays together pretty well. I only had one or two elbows try and escape while eating it. Think of this combination as a deconstructed Hamburger Helper. The flavors are very familiar but elevated. After a few bites it seems perfectly normal to eat a hamburger topped with mac 'n' cheese. In fact, one must wonder why no one thought of it sooner.
Local, 95 S. Main (473-9573)
2126 Madison (725-1845)
localgastropub.com
The Skybox Grill & Bar, 2140 W. Poplar (854-0509)
theskyboxgrilltn.com
LBOE, 2021 Madison (725-0770)
lboerestaurant.com
Published May 27, 2015 in the Memphis Flyer
Someone at Local Gastropub is a serious macaroni and cheese fan. Not only do they have Mac n' Gruyere Tots ($9) on the menu, they just added an entire Mac 'n' Cheese Bar.
Let's start with the tots. There are eight deep-fried and perfectly crispy balls to an order. They actually resemble hushpuppies more than tater tots. There's a little shaved Gruyere melted on top and a side of spicy marinara sauce. Inside the tot is where the magic happens. The macaroni and cheese is positively gooey and delicious. Assuming you don't pop the entire tot in your mouth, each bite leaves a nice string of melted cheese like a good slice of pizza. They taste pretty darn good on their own, but the marinara definitely takes them to the next level. So, to review: crispy, gooey, cheesy, saucy, yum!
Now about that Mac 'n' Cheese Bar. Their truffled mac 'n' cheese ($8) is the base. Then you have a number of toppings to add for an additional cost: lobster ($6), chorizo ($2), bacon ($2), short rib ($4), tasso ($3), and blue cheese ($2). I don't think you can go wrong with this list of toppings, only right. The extra cheesy mac 'n' cheese comes out in a skillet, the size of which depends on the number of toppings added. Rather than the standard elbow, the Mac 'n' Cheese Bar features a long corkscrew noodle which has many aliases (cavatappi, cellentani, amori, spirali, tortiglioni, and fusilli rigati). I added short ribs to my order and the result was decadent and beyond delicious. It took restraint to only add one topping. There is clearly potential here to eat the most amazing, not to mention expensive, mac 'n' cheese of your life.
The newly opened Skybox Grill & Bar in Collierville features macaroni & cheese eggrolls ($8) as an appetizer. Macaroni and cheese EGGROLLS! If that's not worth the trip east, I don't know what is. They are everything I'd hoped they'd be and more. There are two large eggrolls to an order and they come sliced diagonally so there are actually four pieces. (I guess this means they want you to share, which just seems wrong.) The cut allows you to see the curly goodness inside and they are a sight to behold. They aren't too cheesy and they also feature a longer corkscrew noodle rather than the standard elbow. The eggroll wrapper is super crispy, but in a flaky pie-crust way. These, too, taste great on their own, but it's hard to resist the tangy dipping sauces that accompany them. There's a zesty barbecue and a sweet & spicy "sirachi" sauce. Both get the thumbs up. Go on, drive to Collierville.
Finally, true mac 'n' cheese fans must try the Mac-N-Cheeseburger ($9.95) at LBOE. Like all burgers at LBOE, it features a lovely square ciabatta bun that is perfectly toasted and a nice, big never-frozen ground beef patty. On top of the meat is a nice scoop of homemade mac 'n' cheese with a nice helping of crumbled hardwood bacon. The mac 'n' cheese stays together pretty well. I only had one or two elbows try and escape while eating it. Think of this combination as a deconstructed Hamburger Helper. The flavors are very familiar but elevated. After a few bites it seems perfectly normal to eat a hamburger topped with mac 'n' cheese. In fact, one must wonder why no one thought of it sooner.
Local, 95 S. Main (473-9573)
2126 Madison (725-1845)
localgastropub.com
The Skybox Grill & Bar, 2140 W. Poplar (854-0509)
theskyboxgrilltn.com
LBOE, 2021 Madison (725-0770)
lboerestaurant.com
Sunday, April 5, 2015
Donuts for Dessert
Three restaurants offer a twist on the breakfast treat.
Published in the Memphis Flyer April 5, 2015
Ginger Donuts with Coconut Sorbet
"When my family eats at the restaurant, they always get the ginger donuts," says Tsunami's owner and chef Ben Smith.
The ginger donuts with coconut sorbet ($8) at Tsunami have been a solid seller for five or six years. Smith says they tie nicely into the restaurant's Pacific Rim theme, while also honoring the South's love of deep-fried foods.
The ginger donuts are about the size of golf balls and have a crusty exterior and a cakey, gooey interior and are dusted with powdered sugar. They aren't too sweet. Their deliciousness lies somewhere between coffee cake and funnel cake.
Smith says they aren't your standard donut as they are a bit denser and are laced with fresh ginger. "The fresh ginger makes a big difference and gives a big punch of flavor," he says. There are three per order, and it is a hearty dessert.
He didn't always pair them with a big scoop of his coconut sorbet, but once he did he found it was the perfect match and provided balance. The final touch on the dish is a light coating of ginger syrup, also made with fresh ginger. "It's a double whammy of fresh ginger," says Smith.
Zappolies
Down the street, Josh Steiner is making a name for himself at Strano by sharing his family's Sicilian and Moroccan influenced recipes. His carrot cake has been creating a lot of buzz, but the Zappolies ($7.50) on the brunch menu are a must try. (They are available by special request at dinner.) There are six per order.
The Zeppola is a traditional Italian pastry. Billed as his "Family's Recipe for Donuts Rolled in Cinnamon Sugar with a side of Berry Sweet Sauce," the Zappolies are reminiscent of a traditional beignet. Let's call them cousins. The Zappolies are a tad smaller, a little more free form in shape, and feature cinnamon sugar rather than powdered sugar. The texture is almost exactly the same.
What make Strano's Zappolies really special are the accompanying dipping sauces. The "Berry sweet sauce" includes a little Campari and is devilishly sweet. As a bonus, a heavenly hazelnut dipping sauce also accompanied my order. Imagine a thinner, warmer Nutella. It was hard to say which sauce was better for dipping, but it was fun trying to figure it out.
Korean Doughnuts
Crazy Noodle chef Ji Won Choi says her Korean donut holes ($5.99) are traditional, but the dessert presentation is not. She makes them with wheat flour mixed with green tea powder, so they are not at all sweet, but they have a very appealing flavor.
Slightly larger than marbles, the donuts are cakey and quite dense — perfect for repeatedly popping into one's mouth. The menu shows them to be a bit larger, but my order had nine of the small donut holes surrounding a heaping mound of vanilla ice cream, crisscrossed with generous amounts of chocolate sauce, and topped with a heavy dusting of sugar and cinnamon. The presentation is quite festive — so much so that it seemed like it was my birthday. Or someone's!
The dessert is definitely a crowd pleaser. My children practically licked the plate clean.
(The menu description says "this dessert contains nuts," but no actual nuts were observed — only donuts!)
Published in the Memphis Flyer April 5, 2015
Ginger Donuts with Coconut Sorbet
"When my family eats at the restaurant, they always get the ginger donuts," says Tsunami's owner and chef Ben Smith.
The ginger donuts with coconut sorbet ($8) at Tsunami have been a solid seller for five or six years. Smith says they tie nicely into the restaurant's Pacific Rim theme, while also honoring the South's love of deep-fried foods.
The ginger donuts are about the size of golf balls and have a crusty exterior and a cakey, gooey interior and are dusted with powdered sugar. They aren't too sweet. Their deliciousness lies somewhere between coffee cake and funnel cake.
Smith says they aren't your standard donut as they are a bit denser and are laced with fresh ginger. "The fresh ginger makes a big difference and gives a big punch of flavor," he says. There are three per order, and it is a hearty dessert.
He didn't always pair them with a big scoop of his coconut sorbet, but once he did he found it was the perfect match and provided balance. The final touch on the dish is a light coating of ginger syrup, also made with fresh ginger. "It's a double whammy of fresh ginger," says Smith.
Zappolies
Down the street, Josh Steiner is making a name for himself at Strano by sharing his family's Sicilian and Moroccan influenced recipes. His carrot cake has been creating a lot of buzz, but the Zappolies ($7.50) on the brunch menu are a must try. (They are available by special request at dinner.) There are six per order.
The Zeppola is a traditional Italian pastry. Billed as his "Family's Recipe for Donuts Rolled in Cinnamon Sugar with a side of Berry Sweet Sauce," the Zappolies are reminiscent of a traditional beignet. Let's call them cousins. The Zappolies are a tad smaller, a little more free form in shape, and feature cinnamon sugar rather than powdered sugar. The texture is almost exactly the same.
What make Strano's Zappolies really special are the accompanying dipping sauces. The "Berry sweet sauce" includes a little Campari and is devilishly sweet. As a bonus, a heavenly hazelnut dipping sauce also accompanied my order. Imagine a thinner, warmer Nutella. It was hard to say which sauce was better for dipping, but it was fun trying to figure it out.
Korean Doughnuts
Crazy Noodle chef Ji Won Choi says her Korean donut holes ($5.99) are traditional, but the dessert presentation is not. She makes them with wheat flour mixed with green tea powder, so they are not at all sweet, but they have a very appealing flavor.
Slightly larger than marbles, the donuts are cakey and quite dense — perfect for repeatedly popping into one's mouth. The menu shows them to be a bit larger, but my order had nine of the small donut holes surrounding a heaping mound of vanilla ice cream, crisscrossed with generous amounts of chocolate sauce, and topped with a heavy dusting of sugar and cinnamon. The presentation is quite festive — so much so that it seemed like it was my birthday. Or someone's!
The dessert is definitely a crowd pleaser. My children practically licked the plate clean.
(The menu description says "this dessert contains nuts," but no actual nuts were observed — only donuts!)
Thursday, December 4, 2014
Chicken wings make their mark on local menus
Published December 4, 2014 in the Memphis Flyer
Restaurants specializing in wings could soon outnumber barbecue restaurants in Memphis and maybe even churches. Wings are seemingly everywhere, sneaking their way onto the menus of all types of restaurants.
Central BBQ
"Wings are one of my top sellers," says Craig Blondis, owner of Central BBQ. Blondis never intended to have wings on the menu, but one or two customers bugged him in the early days to give wings a try. Blondis made them one day, and the next day one of his customers ordered 200 and had them delivered to his office. "That's how it took off," Blondis says. "It was never my intention. I was just goofing around. Now our wings have been voted the best three or four times."
They have a nice, smoky taste, and the meat easily falls off the bone. Blondis says he marinates raw wings in Louisiana hot sauce for one to two days before smoking them for an hour or two. Then he chills them and flash fries them. The last step is to season them — wet, naked, jerked, dry spice, honey gold, or sweet heat.
Some customers like to order the wings "muddy," which means they come with a wet sauce and a dry rub. The most common muddy combination is a traditional wet Buffalo sauce with the hot rub, but customers also request the sweet heat with the jerk rub on top.
Sweet heat on its own is also a popular choice. It's the honey gold sauce with the addition of habanero and Chinese red peppers. "You get the sweet up front and the heat on the back end," Blondis explains. It has a nice Asian flair to it, and the sauce sticks to your fingers in such a way that you may consider eating them too.
A half order comes with three wings ($5.99) and full orders six ($9.99).
Slider Inn
Wings are a popular menu item at Slider Inn because they are good for sharing and go well with football games, general manager Jesse Keenan says.
The wings are fried unbattered and then sauced. The sauce is very simple and classic. "We use Frank's hot sauce and butter, but we have our own special ratio," he says. "Everyone absolutely loves our sauce. It has a heat to it, but the butter mellows it out so it doesn't finish super hot."
I don't know if it is due to the perfect ratio of butter and hot sauce, but Slider's sauce seems to soak into skin, coating the wings perfectly, delivering the full-on Buffalo flavor without too much mess. However, Keenan says that their motto is, "If you are going to get sticky fingers, we want you to get them sticky at Slider Inn."
A half order of six wings is $6.99 and a full order of 12 is $12.99, but Slider is running a 50 cent wing special through Super Bowl Sunday.
Mosa Asian Bistro
Mosa may not be the first place you think of when it comes to wings, but if you are looking for something a little different, it should be. They've had a Sriracha style for about three months now and debuted the Rainbow Wings last month.
The Rainbow Wings feature a panang curry dipping sauce, which is a game changer. Owner Michelle Pao Levine says the sauce is the same sauce as in their Rainbow Panang Curry dish. "It's a super special sauce because of all the amazing ingredients we use: fresh lime, lemongrass, and panang curry, to name a few," she says. The curry is sweet, spicy, and tangy all at once. It seriously brings your tongue to life. The wings are considered a special order item, so they do take a little longer to prepare — about 10 minutes per order. Customers can dip them in the sauce or slather them at will. (I recommend the latter.)
An order of four is $5, and an order of six is $6.50.
Restaurants specializing in wings could soon outnumber barbecue restaurants in Memphis and maybe even churches. Wings are seemingly everywhere, sneaking their way onto the menus of all types of restaurants.
Central BBQ
"Wings are one of my top sellers," says Craig Blondis, owner of Central BBQ. Blondis never intended to have wings on the menu, but one or two customers bugged him in the early days to give wings a try. Blondis made them one day, and the next day one of his customers ordered 200 and had them delivered to his office. "That's how it took off," Blondis says. "It was never my intention. I was just goofing around. Now our wings have been voted the best three or four times."
They have a nice, smoky taste, and the meat easily falls off the bone. Blondis says he marinates raw wings in Louisiana hot sauce for one to two days before smoking them for an hour or two. Then he chills them and flash fries them. The last step is to season them — wet, naked, jerked, dry spice, honey gold, or sweet heat.
Some customers like to order the wings "muddy," which means they come with a wet sauce and a dry rub. The most common muddy combination is a traditional wet Buffalo sauce with the hot rub, but customers also request the sweet heat with the jerk rub on top.
Sweet heat on its own is also a popular choice. It's the honey gold sauce with the addition of habanero and Chinese red peppers. "You get the sweet up front and the heat on the back end," Blondis explains. It has a nice Asian flair to it, and the sauce sticks to your fingers in such a way that you may consider eating them too.
A half order comes with three wings ($5.99) and full orders six ($9.99).
Slider Inn
Wings are a popular menu item at Slider Inn because they are good for sharing and go well with football games, general manager Jesse Keenan says.
The wings are fried unbattered and then sauced. The sauce is very simple and classic. "We use Frank's hot sauce and butter, but we have our own special ratio," he says. "Everyone absolutely loves our sauce. It has a heat to it, but the butter mellows it out so it doesn't finish super hot."
I don't know if it is due to the perfect ratio of butter and hot sauce, but Slider's sauce seems to soak into skin, coating the wings perfectly, delivering the full-on Buffalo flavor without too much mess. However, Keenan says that their motto is, "If you are going to get sticky fingers, we want you to get them sticky at Slider Inn."
A half order of six wings is $6.99 and a full order of 12 is $12.99, but Slider is running a 50 cent wing special through Super Bowl Sunday.
Mosa Asian Bistro
Mosa may not be the first place you think of when it comes to wings, but if you are looking for something a little different, it should be. They've had a Sriracha style for about three months now and debuted the Rainbow Wings last month.
The Rainbow Wings feature a panang curry dipping sauce, which is a game changer. Owner Michelle Pao Levine says the sauce is the same sauce as in their Rainbow Panang Curry dish. "It's a super special sauce because of all the amazing ingredients we use: fresh lime, lemongrass, and panang curry, to name a few," she says. The curry is sweet, spicy, and tangy all at once. It seriously brings your tongue to life. The wings are considered a special order item, so they do take a little longer to prepare — about 10 minutes per order. Customers can dip them in the sauce or slather them at will. (I recommend the latter.)
An order of four is $5, and an order of six is $6.50.
Friday, September 26, 2014
How to Drink a Beer
There’s more to it than you might think.
Published September 26, 2014 in the Memphis Flyer
Memphis Made Brewing Company has been in operation about 10 months and has introduced 16 styles of beer to the Memphis market. Two new IPAs are being introduced this month, including Guitar Attack in bottles and a Golden Ale especially for Gonerfest aptly named GBR. Their popular Lucid Kolsch is slated to be their first year-round offering.
When it comes to advising one on how to drink a beer, Memphis Made co-owner Andy Ashby puts it plainly: Hold glass, tilt, don't choke. Brewmaster Drew Barton takes the question a bit more seriously. His first bit of advice? Don't smoke. "It distracts from the flavors," he says, adding, "Also, it's so bad for you."
Ashby, who has now put out his one cigarette of the day, says that temperature is also important for serving different styles of beer. "Ales, and we just brew ales, generally speaking, can go warmer than lagers," he says. "The English drink their beer cool not cold. The mass majority of Americans like to drink their lighter lagers really cold." Ashby notes that while a PBR will not improve in taste 30 minutes after being opened, a stout or a porter may very well taste better and have more flavor after it warms.
Barton says there's a reason to drink cheap beer cold — to mute the flavors. Ashby agrees saying that really, really cold beer stuns the taste buds, which are the gatekeepers.
Barton says 40 to 45 degrees is a good temperature depending on the beer. "Some brewers put suggestions on the bottle for temperatures and style of glass, but they aren't hard and fast. You don't have to drink Chimay out of a Chimay glass," he says.
Both Ashby and Barton liken the temperature issue to wine. In general, red wine is better at room temperature and white is better chilled — although Barton reserves the right to put ice cubes in his red.
Ashby also advises using a clean glass. Barton agrees, "A dirty glass can cause an off flavor. Any film will cause nucleation sites. Bubbles form and while the head retention may be better, it will decarbonate quicker," he says. Ashby, translating, says, "If bubbles stick to the side of your glass, it isn't clean."
Speaking of head, Ashby says a pinky's worth is a good measure. "How much head depends on style. The Brits like no head, or less than one centimeter. Belgium styles may have two inches."
Barton adds, "Belgians argue that you should pour straight and foam it up." Ashby offers his advice on a proper pour: "Hold it at a 45 degree angle. Get the tap close to the lip of the far side of the glass and make sure it is fully open. Fill it two-thirds or three-fourths of the way and then level out the glass to finish filling."
Ashby and Barton are in the process of finishing a taproom and patio and hope to have them open in the next month or so.
High Cotton Brewing Company's taproom (598 Monroe) is open Thursdays (4-8ish), Fridays (4-10ish) and Saturdays (2-10ish) and features seven to eight beers, including the ESB, Biere de Garde, CT Czar IPA, Hefeweizen, Scottish Ale, Pilsner, and Milk Stout. They also have 160 taps around town.
Owner Brice Timmons is the go-to guy for anyone who wants to feel really good about drinking beer. "Drink beer with family and friends. Beer is about community and friendship," he says. "It's quite literally the origin of civilization."
Beat that, wine!
Timmons says that monolithic hunters and gatherers had a more varied diet than farmers and had more time for leisure and socialization. "Anthropologists spent decades trying to figure out why anyone would choose farming. It was to grow grain to make beer," he says. "The point being that humans have developed a civilization in which beer and community are inextricably linked. We do ourselves a service when we gather in clean, well-lit places to drink beer and spend time with friends and family."
His second piece of advice on how to drink a beer is to drink without judgment. "There is no benefit to snobbery. If someone wants a Bud Light from a bottle, that is their business. Likewise, if someone wants a Belgium sour ale in a flared tulip glass at 55 degrees so they can take tasting notes, so be it."
Personally, Timmons likes to drink beer from a Burgundy wine glass because it focuses the aroma but still has heft. "I like to spend time thinking about the aroma and how it goes from nose to palate to finish seamlessly. When it smells like fresh biscuits, tastes like malty bread, and finishes with the sweetness of toast, it's a beautiful thing," he says.
Timmons says that craft beer's greatest advantage as a beverage is that it's accessible to everyone. "Even the best beers are affordable, maybe not every day, but ... making such an accessible beverage inaccessible through snobbery or pretense doesn't do a service to anybody."
On October 4th, High Cotton will be tapping a special release Oktoberfest lager as part of their block-wide Oktoberfest celebration from noon to 7 p.m. General admission is $40 (VIPs $100 per person or $150 per couple). There will be all the beer you can get to the front of the line for, a whole pig roast, a buffet including locally made bratwurst, traditional fermented delights like sauerkraut and dill pickles, folk music, traditional music, and family-friendly activities.
Wiseacre Brewing Company offers two year-round beers in cans — Ananda IPA and Tiny Bomb American Pilsner — and features those as well as a host of other beers in its taproom (2783 Broad), which is open Thursdays (4-8 p.m.), Fridays, (4-10 p.m.) and Saturdays (1-8 p.m.).
Co-founder Kellan Bartosch believes drinking beer should be less scary to newcomers and more light-hearted for "connoisseurs." He says, "Folks often come to the taproom and lay out their fears before ordering. 'I don't like dark beers' or 'My husband likes the mega hoppy stuff, but, yuck, I think it's gross — do you have wine?'"
Bartosch says it would be easy to condescend to these new patrons with beer vernacular and BJCP-style (Beer Judge Certification Program) guidelines vs. modern American brewing techniques, but he and his brother, the brewmaster, Davin, would like everybody to know that there are relatable flavors and textures in beer from the rest of the gustatory world. "Like coffee? Stouts have roasted flavors. Enjoy bananas? Hefeweizen yeast produces banana-like ester compounds," he notes. "Tiny Bomb is a clean, crisp lager that's similar in style to many macro-produced beers but has a ton more flavor — so much so Southern Living said it was the best beer in the state!"
All this is to say that the Bartosch brothers think people should drink beer with an open mind and know that there is bound to be something recognizable in beer that he or she might enjoy. "Much like other subcultures with way too much seriousness, it shouldn't be forgotten that this is beer and not rocket science. In our internet culture so many have taken it upon themselves to become critics of whatever the topic is, arguing on message boards or writing derogatory messages on social media. Simply pointing a finger and being a critic is easy; being an appreciator is more difficult and inclusive in the long run," he says.
However, he does also believe there is a time for analysis, excessive sniffing, and such. "Aroma, appearance, flavor, mouthfeel, and history all play an important part in understanding what you're drinking. Beer ingredients, what flavors/textures they create, and the role they play in different styles can teach us that it's silly to complain about a Marzen not being hoppy because that's like getting mad at a burger for not being Thai curry," he says.
Bartosch continues, "Balance is a touch achievement on the brewery side and learning to appreciate that can be zen-like. Similarly, making something clean and delicate is more challenging than making something extreme. Understanding that every style of beer can be enjoyable the same way we peruse genres of music or food based on our moods is much wiser than only drinking IPAs."
Published September 26, 2014 in the Memphis Flyer
Memphis Made Brewing Company has been in operation about 10 months and has introduced 16 styles of beer to the Memphis market. Two new IPAs are being introduced this month, including Guitar Attack in bottles and a Golden Ale especially for Gonerfest aptly named GBR. Their popular Lucid Kolsch is slated to be their first year-round offering.
When it comes to advising one on how to drink a beer, Memphis Made co-owner Andy Ashby puts it plainly: Hold glass, tilt, don't choke. Brewmaster Drew Barton takes the question a bit more seriously. His first bit of advice? Don't smoke. "It distracts from the flavors," he says, adding, "Also, it's so bad for you."
Ashby, who has now put out his one cigarette of the day, says that temperature is also important for serving different styles of beer. "Ales, and we just brew ales, generally speaking, can go warmer than lagers," he says. "The English drink their beer cool not cold. The mass majority of Americans like to drink their lighter lagers really cold." Ashby notes that while a PBR will not improve in taste 30 minutes after being opened, a stout or a porter may very well taste better and have more flavor after it warms.
Barton says there's a reason to drink cheap beer cold — to mute the flavors. Ashby agrees saying that really, really cold beer stuns the taste buds, which are the gatekeepers.
Barton says 40 to 45 degrees is a good temperature depending on the beer. "Some brewers put suggestions on the bottle for temperatures and style of glass, but they aren't hard and fast. You don't have to drink Chimay out of a Chimay glass," he says.
Both Ashby and Barton liken the temperature issue to wine. In general, red wine is better at room temperature and white is better chilled — although Barton reserves the right to put ice cubes in his red.
Ashby also advises using a clean glass. Barton agrees, "A dirty glass can cause an off flavor. Any film will cause nucleation sites. Bubbles form and while the head retention may be better, it will decarbonate quicker," he says. Ashby, translating, says, "If bubbles stick to the side of your glass, it isn't clean."
Speaking of head, Ashby says a pinky's worth is a good measure. "How much head depends on style. The Brits like no head, or less than one centimeter. Belgium styles may have two inches."
Barton adds, "Belgians argue that you should pour straight and foam it up." Ashby offers his advice on a proper pour: "Hold it at a 45 degree angle. Get the tap close to the lip of the far side of the glass and make sure it is fully open. Fill it two-thirds or three-fourths of the way and then level out the glass to finish filling."
Ashby and Barton are in the process of finishing a taproom and patio and hope to have them open in the next month or so.
High Cotton Brewing Company's taproom (598 Monroe) is open Thursdays (4-8ish), Fridays (4-10ish) and Saturdays (2-10ish) and features seven to eight beers, including the ESB, Biere de Garde, CT Czar IPA, Hefeweizen, Scottish Ale, Pilsner, and Milk Stout. They also have 160 taps around town.
Owner Brice Timmons is the go-to guy for anyone who wants to feel really good about drinking beer. "Drink beer with family and friends. Beer is about community and friendship," he says. "It's quite literally the origin of civilization."
Beat that, wine!
Timmons says that monolithic hunters and gatherers had a more varied diet than farmers and had more time for leisure and socialization. "Anthropologists spent decades trying to figure out why anyone would choose farming. It was to grow grain to make beer," he says. "The point being that humans have developed a civilization in which beer and community are inextricably linked. We do ourselves a service when we gather in clean, well-lit places to drink beer and spend time with friends and family."
His second piece of advice on how to drink a beer is to drink without judgment. "There is no benefit to snobbery. If someone wants a Bud Light from a bottle, that is their business. Likewise, if someone wants a Belgium sour ale in a flared tulip glass at 55 degrees so they can take tasting notes, so be it."
Personally, Timmons likes to drink beer from a Burgundy wine glass because it focuses the aroma but still has heft. "I like to spend time thinking about the aroma and how it goes from nose to palate to finish seamlessly. When it smells like fresh biscuits, tastes like malty bread, and finishes with the sweetness of toast, it's a beautiful thing," he says.
Timmons says that craft beer's greatest advantage as a beverage is that it's accessible to everyone. "Even the best beers are affordable, maybe not every day, but ... making such an accessible beverage inaccessible through snobbery or pretense doesn't do a service to anybody."
On October 4th, High Cotton will be tapping a special release Oktoberfest lager as part of their block-wide Oktoberfest celebration from noon to 7 p.m. General admission is $40 (VIPs $100 per person or $150 per couple). There will be all the beer you can get to the front of the line for, a whole pig roast, a buffet including locally made bratwurst, traditional fermented delights like sauerkraut and dill pickles, folk music, traditional music, and family-friendly activities.
Wiseacre Brewing Company offers two year-round beers in cans — Ananda IPA and Tiny Bomb American Pilsner — and features those as well as a host of other beers in its taproom (2783 Broad), which is open Thursdays (4-8 p.m.), Fridays, (4-10 p.m.) and Saturdays (1-8 p.m.).
Co-founder Kellan Bartosch believes drinking beer should be less scary to newcomers and more light-hearted for "connoisseurs." He says, "Folks often come to the taproom and lay out their fears before ordering. 'I don't like dark beers' or 'My husband likes the mega hoppy stuff, but, yuck, I think it's gross — do you have wine?'"
Bartosch says it would be easy to condescend to these new patrons with beer vernacular and BJCP-style (Beer Judge Certification Program) guidelines vs. modern American brewing techniques, but he and his brother, the brewmaster, Davin, would like everybody to know that there are relatable flavors and textures in beer from the rest of the gustatory world. "Like coffee? Stouts have roasted flavors. Enjoy bananas? Hefeweizen yeast produces banana-like ester compounds," he notes. "Tiny Bomb is a clean, crisp lager that's similar in style to many macro-produced beers but has a ton more flavor — so much so Southern Living said it was the best beer in the state!"
All this is to say that the Bartosch brothers think people should drink beer with an open mind and know that there is bound to be something recognizable in beer that he or she might enjoy. "Much like other subcultures with way too much seriousness, it shouldn't be forgotten that this is beer and not rocket science. In our internet culture so many have taken it upon themselves to become critics of whatever the topic is, arguing on message boards or writing derogatory messages on social media. Simply pointing a finger and being a critic is easy; being an appreciator is more difficult and inclusive in the long run," he says.
However, he does also believe there is a time for analysis, excessive sniffing, and such. "Aroma, appearance, flavor, mouthfeel, and history all play an important part in understanding what you're drinking. Beer ingredients, what flavors/textures they create, and the role they play in different styles can teach us that it's silly to complain about a Marzen not being hoppy because that's like getting mad at a burger for not being Thai curry," he says.
Bartosch continues, "Balance is a touch achievement on the brewery side and learning to appreciate that can be zen-like. Similarly, making something clean and delicate is more challenging than making something extreme. Understanding that every style of beer can be enjoyable the same way we peruse genres of music or food based on our moods is much wiser than only drinking IPAs."
Thursday, August 21, 2014
Anshei Sphard - Beth El Emeth (ASBEE) Congregation’s World Kosher Barbeque Championship marks its 26th year.
Published in the Memphis Flyer August 21, 2014
"It's a big schlep," says Dr. Ira Weinstein of Anshei Sphard - Beth El Emeth (ASBEE) Congregation's World Kosher Barbeque Championship. "But it's also a great deal of fun."
The contest marks its 26th year this Sunday.
Weinstein dreamed up the event when he was the congregation's president in 1980s. "I moved here in 1981, and all I heard was barbecue, barbecue, barbecue. Bingo was out of fashion, so I tried to think of a Jewish barbecue that was kosher," he says.
Rabbi Mark Levin loved the idea and gave him the green light. Another congregant made his own charcoal and offered to buy 20 grills. The three of them, along with a few others, sat down to plan.
To ensure that the event was kosher, the committee decided that they would buy the utensils, do the ingredient shopping, and provide each team with a kosher rack of ribs and a roast up front. The team fee was $125, and they had 21 teams sign up. Weinstein was ecstatic.
Event chairman, Eric Mogy, elaborates, "Kosher means a rule of dietary laws that relates to the types of food we do and don't eat and how that food is prepared. We ensure everything is kosher by maintaining control and supervision over all the food and cooking process. We provide the food, grills, and utensils to all the teams competing. We supervise the entire process from marinating the meat to lighting the grills to inspecting what goes on the grill. We try to maintain the highest standards when it comes to making this a kosher barbecue."
The event was modeled after the Memphis In May Barbecue Cooking Contest in that it featured booths and funny team names, celebrity judges, and awards. It was an instant hit, and although they didn't raise any funds, Weinstein says they raised a lot of fun.
Over the years, the event has grown and gained enough corporate sponsorships that it is now the congregation's largest fundraiser. This year's event has 42 teams, and they expect a crowd of 3,000 people.
Teams come from all over the city as well as from across the country. Mogy says, "This is a world kosher barbecue competition. We have teams from all over come and compete. We have had teams come from across the nation, including New York, Texas, Washington, D.C. In addition, we have even had teams come from as far as Israel to compete."
Mogy says that their barbecue contest has spawned the creation of similar, although not as good, contests across the nation. "New York, Kansas City, Birmingham, and even Atlanta have all started their own kosher barbecue competitions after coming to Memphis and seeing how we do it. In fact, there are even talks of creating a circuit in which all competitions work together and send representatives to other events," he says.
In addition to barbecue teams, the ASBEE event features a Cowsher Café, run by the Sisterhood, where food can be purchased. There's a 3-on-3 basketball tournament, a pickle-eating contest, live music, and several children's activities.
There are a few new things this year. They've added chicken as a new category, and there will be vendor booths.
Trophies will be awarded for the Overall Grand Champion and 1st, 2nd, and 3rd place in the following categories: Best Beef Brisket; Best Beef Ribs; Best Team Name; Best Team Booth; Best Beans; and Best Chicken.
Weinstein competed for the first 23 years as a member of the Alter Cookers. (It's a play on the Yiddish alta cockers or old farts.) "We only won twice," he adds, lest he be accused of courting any favor.
At 86, he prefers to put on one of his signature baseball caps and enjoy the event as a spectator. "I'm a big scotch drinker, so when I come around they give me scotch," he chuckles. He also says he doesn't miss everyone asking, "Is it done yet?"
He's been on the run several times to buy everyone's ingredients. That's where the big schlep comes in. "Everyone always says they'll help, but that's a bunch of bologna," he explains.
This year's event is runs from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. Weinstein says a good time to come is around noon. "I guarantee you will see someone you know," he says.
You don't have to be Jewish or keep kosher to join in the fun.
As a final plug, Weinstein says, "The camaraderie is amazing, and the police have never had to get involved."
"It's a big schlep," says Dr. Ira Weinstein of Anshei Sphard - Beth El Emeth (ASBEE) Congregation's World Kosher Barbeque Championship. "But it's also a great deal of fun."
The contest marks its 26th year this Sunday.
Weinstein dreamed up the event when he was the congregation's president in 1980s. "I moved here in 1981, and all I heard was barbecue, barbecue, barbecue. Bingo was out of fashion, so I tried to think of a Jewish barbecue that was kosher," he says.
Rabbi Mark Levin loved the idea and gave him the green light. Another congregant made his own charcoal and offered to buy 20 grills. The three of them, along with a few others, sat down to plan.
To ensure that the event was kosher, the committee decided that they would buy the utensils, do the ingredient shopping, and provide each team with a kosher rack of ribs and a roast up front. The team fee was $125, and they had 21 teams sign up. Weinstein was ecstatic.
Event chairman, Eric Mogy, elaborates, "Kosher means a rule of dietary laws that relates to the types of food we do and don't eat and how that food is prepared. We ensure everything is kosher by maintaining control and supervision over all the food and cooking process. We provide the food, grills, and utensils to all the teams competing. We supervise the entire process from marinating the meat to lighting the grills to inspecting what goes on the grill. We try to maintain the highest standards when it comes to making this a kosher barbecue."
The event was modeled after the Memphis In May Barbecue Cooking Contest in that it featured booths and funny team names, celebrity judges, and awards. It was an instant hit, and although they didn't raise any funds, Weinstein says they raised a lot of fun.
Over the years, the event has grown and gained enough corporate sponsorships that it is now the congregation's largest fundraiser. This year's event has 42 teams, and they expect a crowd of 3,000 people.
Teams come from all over the city as well as from across the country. Mogy says, "This is a world kosher barbecue competition. We have teams from all over come and compete. We have had teams come from across the nation, including New York, Texas, Washington, D.C. In addition, we have even had teams come from as far as Israel to compete."
Mogy says that their barbecue contest has spawned the creation of similar, although not as good, contests across the nation. "New York, Kansas City, Birmingham, and even Atlanta have all started their own kosher barbecue competitions after coming to Memphis and seeing how we do it. In fact, there are even talks of creating a circuit in which all competitions work together and send representatives to other events," he says.
In addition to barbecue teams, the ASBEE event features a Cowsher Café, run by the Sisterhood, where food can be purchased. There's a 3-on-3 basketball tournament, a pickle-eating contest, live music, and several children's activities.
There are a few new things this year. They've added chicken as a new category, and there will be vendor booths.
Trophies will be awarded for the Overall Grand Champion and 1st, 2nd, and 3rd place in the following categories: Best Beef Brisket; Best Beef Ribs; Best Team Name; Best Team Booth; Best Beans; and Best Chicken.
Weinstein competed for the first 23 years as a member of the Alter Cookers. (It's a play on the Yiddish alta cockers or old farts.) "We only won twice," he adds, lest he be accused of courting any favor.
At 86, he prefers to put on one of his signature baseball caps and enjoy the event as a spectator. "I'm a big scotch drinker, so when I come around they give me scotch," he chuckles. He also says he doesn't miss everyone asking, "Is it done yet?"
He's been on the run several times to buy everyone's ingredients. That's where the big schlep comes in. "Everyone always says they'll help, but that's a bunch of bologna," he explains.
This year's event is runs from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. Weinstein says a good time to come is around noon. "I guarantee you will see someone you know," he says.
You don't have to be Jewish or keep kosher to join in the fun.
As a final plug, Weinstein says, "The camaraderie is amazing, and the police have never had to get involved."
Thursday, July 3, 2014
Ordering up the Unexpected
A restaurant is known for that dish, but you should really try this dish.
Published July 3, 2014 in the Memphis Flyer
If a place is known for its fried chicken, you order the fried chicken. End of discussion. Or... maybe there's a restaurant widely revered for its specialty but offers a dish that is mind-blowingly incongruent and yet so very delicious. You're going to want to try that too, right?
Fish Tacos at Elwood's Shack
Elwood's Shack is literally a shack adjacent to the Lowe's parking lot on Perkins near Summer. It's safe to say that it's the last place you'd expect to find a mighty fine fish taco. The Steelhead Trout Fish Tacos ($11) come two to a plate. An eight-inch tortilla is baked with mozzarella to form the taco shell, and because the cheese coats the entire tortilla, it tastes as though the trout is wrapped in a crispy, deliciously gooey quesadilla. (Look out, Taco Bell!) Steelhead trout is a fish that spends part of its life in the ocean and can grow up to 55 pounds. The meat is very pink, and the flavor is not at all fishy. The trout is topped with fresh field greens, avocado, pico de gallo, and a creamy horseradish sauce. It's really quite amazing. And filling. I have no idea how anyone could eat two. Sides are sold separately, so definitely hold off on those or get someone to share.
Elwood's Shack, 4523 Summer (761-9898)
elwoodsshack.com
Hamburger at Jack Pirtle's
Clearly Jack Pirtle's is known for their chicken, as they should be, but they also cook up a damn fine burger. The Old Fashioned Grilled Hamburger is not fancy, and it doesn't need to be. All of the basics are there — a nice-sized patty (grilled to perfection), crispy iceberg lettuce, thick cut raw onion, thinly sliced tomato, generous pickle slices, lots of mayo, and tangy mustard. The kicker is the buttered and grilled bun. (Butter = love.) It's reminiscent of the kind of burger you'd order late at night in a bar, but it's available all day long and you don't need a buzz to think it tastes good! And for $2.79, it's a steal. With prices that low, you'll want to order a side of fries to dip in their signature gravy. Go ahead, get a little chicken too. Put it the fridge and eat it later.
Jack Pirtle's Chicken, 1370 Poplar
(726-6086) jackpirtleschicken.com
Tamales at Dino's
The tamales at Dino's are listed under "Italian specialties" on the menu, but they are made in South Memphis especially for the restaurant. They come plain, with chili, or "3 way" ($7.95) — with chili and spaghetti. Of course, I had to go with the latter. The 3-way tamales definitely fall under the "Things I never thought I'd eat sober" category. Although, honestly, they may in fact be the perfect hangover food. The tamales themselves are tender, meaty, and pack a nice, spicy punch. Four of them serve as a base for the spaghetti and chili (a combination known as spaghetti red). You can't eat chili without cheese and onions, so it's like three meals in one. Dino's chili isn't far off from its traditional sauce (aka gravy). I'd bet they just add some beans to it. Whatever they do, I like it. There's enough tomato-y goodness to get a traditional spaghetti fix with the noodles and enough bean action to get the full-on chili experience. It is way too easy to eat way too much of this!
Dino's Grill, 645 N McLean (278-9127)
dinosgrill.com
Published July 3, 2014 in the Memphis Flyer
If a place is known for its fried chicken, you order the fried chicken. End of discussion. Or... maybe there's a restaurant widely revered for its specialty but offers a dish that is mind-blowingly incongruent and yet so very delicious. You're going to want to try that too, right?
Fish Tacos at Elwood's Shack
Elwood's Shack is literally a shack adjacent to the Lowe's parking lot on Perkins near Summer. It's safe to say that it's the last place you'd expect to find a mighty fine fish taco. The Steelhead Trout Fish Tacos ($11) come two to a plate. An eight-inch tortilla is baked with mozzarella to form the taco shell, and because the cheese coats the entire tortilla, it tastes as though the trout is wrapped in a crispy, deliciously gooey quesadilla. (Look out, Taco Bell!) Steelhead trout is a fish that spends part of its life in the ocean and can grow up to 55 pounds. The meat is very pink, and the flavor is not at all fishy. The trout is topped with fresh field greens, avocado, pico de gallo, and a creamy horseradish sauce. It's really quite amazing. And filling. I have no idea how anyone could eat two. Sides are sold separately, so definitely hold off on those or get someone to share.
Elwood's Shack, 4523 Summer (761-9898)
elwoodsshack.com
Hamburger at Jack Pirtle's
Clearly Jack Pirtle's is known for their chicken, as they should be, but they also cook up a damn fine burger. The Old Fashioned Grilled Hamburger is not fancy, and it doesn't need to be. All of the basics are there — a nice-sized patty (grilled to perfection), crispy iceberg lettuce, thick cut raw onion, thinly sliced tomato, generous pickle slices, lots of mayo, and tangy mustard. The kicker is the buttered and grilled bun. (Butter = love.) It's reminiscent of the kind of burger you'd order late at night in a bar, but it's available all day long and you don't need a buzz to think it tastes good! And for $2.79, it's a steal. With prices that low, you'll want to order a side of fries to dip in their signature gravy. Go ahead, get a little chicken too. Put it the fridge and eat it later.
Jack Pirtle's Chicken, 1370 Poplar
(726-6086) jackpirtleschicken.com
Tamales at Dino's
The tamales at Dino's are listed under "Italian specialties" on the menu, but they are made in South Memphis especially for the restaurant. They come plain, with chili, or "3 way" ($7.95) — with chili and spaghetti. Of course, I had to go with the latter. The 3-way tamales definitely fall under the "Things I never thought I'd eat sober" category. Although, honestly, they may in fact be the perfect hangover food. The tamales themselves are tender, meaty, and pack a nice, spicy punch. Four of them serve as a base for the spaghetti and chili (a combination known as spaghetti red). You can't eat chili without cheese and onions, so it's like three meals in one. Dino's chili isn't far off from its traditional sauce (aka gravy). I'd bet they just add some beans to it. Whatever they do, I like it. There's enough tomato-y goodness to get a traditional spaghetti fix with the noodles and enough bean action to get the full-on chili experience. It is way too easy to eat way too much of this!
Dino's Grill, 645 N McLean (278-9127)
dinosgrill.com
Thursday, June 5, 2014
Some of the Best Nachos in Memphis
Going beyond BBQ nachos.
Published June 4, 2014 in the Memphis Flyer
The first ever plate of nachos was created in 1943 at a restaurant called the Victory Club in the city of Piedras Negras, Coahuila, Mexico, by the restaurant's maître d'. The maître d's nickname was "Nacho," and he called his dish "Nacho's especiales."
Now, we all know what happens next in this story, right? Some genius in Memphis went and put barbecue on top of the nachos. But it doesn't end there. There are some exceptional plates of nachos served in this city.
Here are three:
Badass Nachos at Sweet Grass Next Door come in two sizes—1) huge ($14) and 2) who-even-knew-they-made-plates-that-big ($24). Walk in on a Saturday afternoon and you are likely to see an order on most tables.
What makes them so special? The heaping mound of beef brisket that boldly tops the chips, that's what. This heaping mound also manages to make this gluttonous dish somewhat refined, as do the perfectly cooked onions and peppers. Even without the brisket, the Badass Nachos would be decadent because of the generous amounts of red chili sauce and queso. (I have vegetarian friends that swear by this.) The chili sauce is mild, as is the queso, but the jalapeños are cut thick, and they don't play. Fresh tomatoes, cilantro, and a generous dollop of sour cream complete the badassery.
You need at least two or three people to polish off the regular (huge) order, and you definitely cannot achieve total destruction without the aid of a fork. The thin and crispy tortilla chips cannot hold up to the toppings for long, but the half-crispy half-gooey results are delicious. A tendril of beef, a juicy sliver of pepper, or, at the very least, a drop of sauce is going to land on the table or your pants or probably both, but you won't care.
These bad boys can't be contained by a "to go" box, so don't even think about it. Have a seat, roll up your sleeves, and enjoy.
Sweet Grass Next Door 937 S. Cooper (278-0278)
sweetgrassmemphis.com
The Asian Nachos ($10) on Tsunami's Izakaya (snack plates) menu are definitely in a more delicate category than their across the street neighbors, but they boldly go where no one has gone before. Six thin, lightly fried wonton chips line the plate. Placed in the center of each is a perfect bite of tuna tataki. House-made cilantro crema and Sriracha are drizzled on top along with a sprinkling of the finest green onions you've ever seen. The thinly sliced jalapeño is serious, and the Sriracha seals the deal. These delicate beauties pack a serious punch.
Don't worry, it hurts so good.
Incorporating a two-bite method on each chip is the way to go. Yes, use your hands. The first bite is for the tuna, and the second is for the last little bit of crema left on the chip. Go ahead and scoop up some more off the plate for extra cooling. Take a minute to appreciate the dish as a whole before digging in, and definitely save the creamiest chip for last.
Tsunami
928 S. Cooper
(274-2556)
tsunamimemphis.com
If the wontons piqued your interest about what can constitute nachos, then the next logical step is to try the Naked Arepas ($7) at Arepa & Salsa. These are Venezuela's version of the nacho. An arepa is a flatbread made of ground corn (maize) dough or cooked flour. It's not clear why the dish is described as naked, because it is anything but.
The arepas are sliced into triangles and topped with your choice of shredded beef or chicken (or both!), chopped lettuce, thinly sliced avocado, crumbled cotija cheese, and a generous drizzle of "house sauces." The house sauces taste like mild versions of ranch and Thousand Island dressings.
Overall the dish is very mild, but the arepas really make it pop. They are at once doughy yet crispy; fried but not greasy. They have a distinctive flavor and seem right at home under a mess of toppings. The shredded chicken is nicely seasoned and has a delicious tang. The arepas easily hold their weight and maintain their crunch. It's hard to decide whether to use a fork or not.
The Naked Arepas are listed as an appetizer but can certainly be a meal for one. After one bite, you probably won't want to share.
Arepa & Salsa
662 Madison
(949-8537)
arepaandsalsa.com
Published June 4, 2014 in the Memphis Flyer
The first ever plate of nachos was created in 1943 at a restaurant called the Victory Club in the city of Piedras Negras, Coahuila, Mexico, by the restaurant's maître d'. The maître d's nickname was "Nacho," and he called his dish "Nacho's especiales."
Now, we all know what happens next in this story, right? Some genius in Memphis went and put barbecue on top of the nachos. But it doesn't end there. There are some exceptional plates of nachos served in this city.
Here are three:
Badass Nachos at Sweet Grass Next Door come in two sizes—1) huge ($14) and 2) who-even-knew-they-made-plates-that-big ($24). Walk in on a Saturday afternoon and you are likely to see an order on most tables.
What makes them so special? The heaping mound of beef brisket that boldly tops the chips, that's what. This heaping mound also manages to make this gluttonous dish somewhat refined, as do the perfectly cooked onions and peppers. Even without the brisket, the Badass Nachos would be decadent because of the generous amounts of red chili sauce and queso. (I have vegetarian friends that swear by this.) The chili sauce is mild, as is the queso, but the jalapeños are cut thick, and they don't play. Fresh tomatoes, cilantro, and a generous dollop of sour cream complete the badassery.
You need at least two or three people to polish off the regular (huge) order, and you definitely cannot achieve total destruction without the aid of a fork. The thin and crispy tortilla chips cannot hold up to the toppings for long, but the half-crispy half-gooey results are delicious. A tendril of beef, a juicy sliver of pepper, or, at the very least, a drop of sauce is going to land on the table or your pants or probably both, but you won't care.
These bad boys can't be contained by a "to go" box, so don't even think about it. Have a seat, roll up your sleeves, and enjoy.
Sweet Grass Next Door 937 S. Cooper (278-0278)
sweetgrassmemphis.com
The Asian Nachos ($10) on Tsunami's Izakaya (snack plates) menu are definitely in a more delicate category than their across the street neighbors, but they boldly go where no one has gone before. Six thin, lightly fried wonton chips line the plate. Placed in the center of each is a perfect bite of tuna tataki. House-made cilantro crema and Sriracha are drizzled on top along with a sprinkling of the finest green onions you've ever seen. The thinly sliced jalapeño is serious, and the Sriracha seals the deal. These delicate beauties pack a serious punch.
Don't worry, it hurts so good.
Incorporating a two-bite method on each chip is the way to go. Yes, use your hands. The first bite is for the tuna, and the second is for the last little bit of crema left on the chip. Go ahead and scoop up some more off the plate for extra cooling. Take a minute to appreciate the dish as a whole before digging in, and definitely save the creamiest chip for last.
Tsunami
928 S. Cooper
(274-2556)
tsunamimemphis.com
If the wontons piqued your interest about what can constitute nachos, then the next logical step is to try the Naked Arepas ($7) at Arepa & Salsa. These are Venezuela's version of the nacho. An arepa is a flatbread made of ground corn (maize) dough or cooked flour. It's not clear why the dish is described as naked, because it is anything but.
The arepas are sliced into triangles and topped with your choice of shredded beef or chicken (or both!), chopped lettuce, thinly sliced avocado, crumbled cotija cheese, and a generous drizzle of "house sauces." The house sauces taste like mild versions of ranch and Thousand Island dressings.
Overall the dish is very mild, but the arepas really make it pop. They are at once doughy yet crispy; fried but not greasy. They have a distinctive flavor and seem right at home under a mess of toppings. The shredded chicken is nicely seasoned and has a delicious tang. The arepas easily hold their weight and maintain their crunch. It's hard to decide whether to use a fork or not.
The Naked Arepas are listed as an appetizer but can certainly be a meal for one. After one bite, you probably won't want to share.
Arepa & Salsa
662 Madison
(949-8537)
arepaandsalsa.com
Thursday, April 17, 2014
Decisions, Decisions
That build-your-own menu? No need to panic.
Published April 17, 2014 in the Memphis Flyer
There are those among us who love the build-your-own option offered by some local restaurants. They like having things their way. Others seek the safety of the already set menu items. And then there are those of us who see all the decisions ahead — choose a protein, the bread, the three or more toppings, the sauce, the extras (never mind the impatient sighing of the customer next in line) — and try not to freak the eff out.
To that latter group, we say: Keep calm, read on ...
Miss Cordelia's
Miss Cordelia's launched the build-your-own sandwich menu a little over a month ago after sitting on the idea for almost three years. "I knew it would work. It was just a matter of implementation," explains David Thornton, who wears several hats at the store, including marketing manager, chef, and deli manager.
"Our customers became regulars, and the regulars would decide something they wanted to add or take away from our signature sandwiches. It seemed a natural progression to let them design the sandwich themselves," Thornton says. His main concern was that if popular, the order-taking process could become very slow. He designed a menu with the options on it that can be filled out before coming to the register. There is a blanket set price so it is simple to ring up, and the line moves quickly.
To build a perfect sandwich, Thornton says to think not only about what you like but what works well together.
"You might love corned beef and balsamic vinaigrette, but I don't think I'd recommend it as a panini," he says. "In truth, classic sandwiches are classic because the ingredients all work together. I like to tell people to take something like a classic ham and Swiss but play around with the vegetables a little bit. The choice of vegetables, sauces, and bread is the key."
Some popular sandwiches at Miss Cordelia's that can be tweaked include the Tuscan Sun (grilled chicken, slow-roasted tomatoes, roasted portobello, pesto mayo, and provolone cheese on ciabatta), Tom's Poppin' BLT (Tom's Tiny Kitchen Pimento, bacon, jalapeno, lettuce, tomato, and cream cheese on toasted wheat), and Chris's Chipotle (Boar's Head chipotle chicken, chipotle mayo, Swiss cheese, lettuce, and tomato on ciabatta).
Thornton's favorite build-your-own sandwich is the Italian Trio of meats (prosciutto, salami, and mortadella) with Swiss cheese, spinach, roasted red peppers, black olives, and pesto mayo on ciabatta. "It is pretty close to one of our sandwiches on the menu with a few slight changes to my tastes, which is exactly how I think the build-your-own sandwich menu works best," he says.
737 Harbor Bend (526-4772)
misscordelias.com
PYRO'S
Kirk Cotham and his business partner, Chad Foreman, spent about a year researching and developing the concept and then opened the first PYRO'S in the fall of 2013. For them, it was essentially about creating an experience to give guests exactly what they want as best as they could. "Pizza has traditionally been limited to either sharing a pizza and therefore negotiating with the rest of the party on what to get that will satisfy everyone or buying a slice of pizza. Our concept allows for everyone to have exactly the pizza they want," Cotham explains.
At PYRO'S, there is no charge for extra ingredients, so guests don't have to worry about the price of the pizza if they go a little crazy with the toppings. Cotham notes that their process of bringing guests through the line allows them to "fine tune" the pizza further by ordering one ingredient only on one part of the pizza or asking for a little more of something to really customize the dish.
He says the response to the concept in general has been phenomenal: "We see people expanding into different ingredients and adding things that they might not have ever tried before, like our roasted broccoli. It has become a very popular pizza topping."
Cotham has a few rules of thumb for creating the perfect pizza. Among them: Don't be afraid to ask about an ingredient or a combination. "Our staff eats our food and knows it very well, so they can help you build something you will enjoy. We love to talk about pizza."
Don't be afraid to try something new is another suggestion from Cotham. "If it sounds good to you, it probably will be, and if it doesn't turn out like you thought it would, just let us know, and we will be happy to make you a new one."
Cotham's favorite pizza creation is a spicy marinara with steak, broccoli, and bacon and finished with the house-made honey balsamic finishing sauce. "The spiciness of the marinara mixes well with the sweetness of the finishing sauce, and I can't stop ordering it," he says.
1199 Ridgeway (379-8294)
2035 Union (208-8857)
pyrospizza.com
Swanky's and Cheffie's
Swanky's Taco Shop and Cheffie's Café are siblings, without the rivalry. The goal for both is to create a custom-dining experience for each guest who walks through the door. They want everyone to be confident they will get exactly what they are craving, which is why they allow the build-to-taste option.
Lindsey Archer, director of marketing for Swanky's, shies away from offering some rules of thumb. "The beauty of the build-to-taste concept is that there are no rules," she says. "Guests get to decide what is best for them."
Archer does offer one bit of advice, though: Do not fear the sauces. "Topping off your burrito with Swanky's signature garlic sauce or your Cheffie's sandwich with the house-made pesto schmear adds that little extra," she says.
Despite the limitless possibilities, there are some trends with the DIY orders. At Swanky's, they see more chicken burrito bowls travel down the line than anything else. "Guests love the healthy option of the burrito bowl, where they can load all those fresh ingredients in, minus the carbs of the tortilla," Archer explains.
When it comes to healthy options, the same goes for Cheffie's custom salads. "Our sliced marinated chicken atop a bed of mixed greens and piled high with fresh ingredients from the line seems to be a crowd pleaser," says Hillary Vance, the marketing coordinator at Cheffie's. Archer and Vance do have their own DIY favorites.
"From day one, I've loved Swanky's marinated pork. My go-to is a pork burrito filled with black beans, garlic sauce, roasted corn, pico de gallo, and cheese, topped with tomatillo sauce and wrapped in a steaming white tortilla," Archer says.
Vance's top pick at Cheffie's is a roast beef sandwich on artisan white bread, loaded with sun-dried tomatoes, pepperjack cheese, leaf lettuce, and red onion, topped with the house-made horseradish schmear and toasted on the panini press.
Cheffie's Café, 483 High Point Terrace (343-0488)
cheffies.com
Swanky's Taco Shop, 4770 Poplar (730-0763); 6641 Poplar (737-2088)
swankystacoshop.com
Published April 17, 2014 in the Memphis Flyer
There are those among us who love the build-your-own option offered by some local restaurants. They like having things their way. Others seek the safety of the already set menu items. And then there are those of us who see all the decisions ahead — choose a protein, the bread, the three or more toppings, the sauce, the extras (never mind the impatient sighing of the customer next in line) — and try not to freak the eff out.
To that latter group, we say: Keep calm, read on ...
Miss Cordelia's
Miss Cordelia's launched the build-your-own sandwich menu a little over a month ago after sitting on the idea for almost three years. "I knew it would work. It was just a matter of implementation," explains David Thornton, who wears several hats at the store, including marketing manager, chef, and deli manager.
"Our customers became regulars, and the regulars would decide something they wanted to add or take away from our signature sandwiches. It seemed a natural progression to let them design the sandwich themselves," Thornton says. His main concern was that if popular, the order-taking process could become very slow. He designed a menu with the options on it that can be filled out before coming to the register. There is a blanket set price so it is simple to ring up, and the line moves quickly.
To build a perfect sandwich, Thornton says to think not only about what you like but what works well together.
"You might love corned beef and balsamic vinaigrette, but I don't think I'd recommend it as a panini," he says. "In truth, classic sandwiches are classic because the ingredients all work together. I like to tell people to take something like a classic ham and Swiss but play around with the vegetables a little bit. The choice of vegetables, sauces, and bread is the key."
Some popular sandwiches at Miss Cordelia's that can be tweaked include the Tuscan Sun (grilled chicken, slow-roasted tomatoes, roasted portobello, pesto mayo, and provolone cheese on ciabatta), Tom's Poppin' BLT (Tom's Tiny Kitchen Pimento, bacon, jalapeno, lettuce, tomato, and cream cheese on toasted wheat), and Chris's Chipotle (Boar's Head chipotle chicken, chipotle mayo, Swiss cheese, lettuce, and tomato on ciabatta).
Thornton's favorite build-your-own sandwich is the Italian Trio of meats (prosciutto, salami, and mortadella) with Swiss cheese, spinach, roasted red peppers, black olives, and pesto mayo on ciabatta. "It is pretty close to one of our sandwiches on the menu with a few slight changes to my tastes, which is exactly how I think the build-your-own sandwich menu works best," he says.
737 Harbor Bend (526-4772)
misscordelias.com
PYRO'S
Kirk Cotham and his business partner, Chad Foreman, spent about a year researching and developing the concept and then opened the first PYRO'S in the fall of 2013. For them, it was essentially about creating an experience to give guests exactly what they want as best as they could. "Pizza has traditionally been limited to either sharing a pizza and therefore negotiating with the rest of the party on what to get that will satisfy everyone or buying a slice of pizza. Our concept allows for everyone to have exactly the pizza they want," Cotham explains.
At PYRO'S, there is no charge for extra ingredients, so guests don't have to worry about the price of the pizza if they go a little crazy with the toppings. Cotham notes that their process of bringing guests through the line allows them to "fine tune" the pizza further by ordering one ingredient only on one part of the pizza or asking for a little more of something to really customize the dish.
He says the response to the concept in general has been phenomenal: "We see people expanding into different ingredients and adding things that they might not have ever tried before, like our roasted broccoli. It has become a very popular pizza topping."
Cotham has a few rules of thumb for creating the perfect pizza. Among them: Don't be afraid to ask about an ingredient or a combination. "Our staff eats our food and knows it very well, so they can help you build something you will enjoy. We love to talk about pizza."
Don't be afraid to try something new is another suggestion from Cotham. "If it sounds good to you, it probably will be, and if it doesn't turn out like you thought it would, just let us know, and we will be happy to make you a new one."
Cotham's favorite pizza creation is a spicy marinara with steak, broccoli, and bacon and finished with the house-made honey balsamic finishing sauce. "The spiciness of the marinara mixes well with the sweetness of the finishing sauce, and I can't stop ordering it," he says.
1199 Ridgeway (379-8294)
2035 Union (208-8857)
pyrospizza.com
Swanky's and Cheffie's
Swanky's Taco Shop and Cheffie's Café are siblings, without the rivalry. The goal for both is to create a custom-dining experience for each guest who walks through the door. They want everyone to be confident they will get exactly what they are craving, which is why they allow the build-to-taste option.
Lindsey Archer, director of marketing for Swanky's, shies away from offering some rules of thumb. "The beauty of the build-to-taste concept is that there are no rules," she says. "Guests get to decide what is best for them."
Archer does offer one bit of advice, though: Do not fear the sauces. "Topping off your burrito with Swanky's signature garlic sauce or your Cheffie's sandwich with the house-made pesto schmear adds that little extra," she says.
Despite the limitless possibilities, there are some trends with the DIY orders. At Swanky's, they see more chicken burrito bowls travel down the line than anything else. "Guests love the healthy option of the burrito bowl, where they can load all those fresh ingredients in, minus the carbs of the tortilla," Archer explains.
When it comes to healthy options, the same goes for Cheffie's custom salads. "Our sliced marinated chicken atop a bed of mixed greens and piled high with fresh ingredients from the line seems to be a crowd pleaser," says Hillary Vance, the marketing coordinator at Cheffie's. Archer and Vance do have their own DIY favorites.
"From day one, I've loved Swanky's marinated pork. My go-to is a pork burrito filled with black beans, garlic sauce, roasted corn, pico de gallo, and cheese, topped with tomatillo sauce and wrapped in a steaming white tortilla," Archer says.
Vance's top pick at Cheffie's is a roast beef sandwich on artisan white bread, loaded with sun-dried tomatoes, pepperjack cheese, leaf lettuce, and red onion, topped with the house-made horseradish schmear and toasted on the panini press.
Cheffie's Café, 483 High Point Terrace (343-0488)
cheffies.com
Swanky's Taco Shop, 4770 Poplar (730-0763); 6641 Poplar (737-2088)
swankystacoshop.com
Thursday, February 6, 2014
#Hashtag
A brunch bonanza, and a search for the perfect hash brown dish in Midtown.
Published February 5, 2014 in the Memphis Flyer
Beauty Shop, 966 S. Cooper (272-7111)
The Beauty Shop starts serving brunch at 10 a.m., and I recommended getting there early or making a reservation if you want a seat. On a recent Sunday, sidewalk seating was full by 11 a.m. — and it was 54 degrees outside.
Inside, it's warm, welcoming, and totally funky in the best way. From the mismatched mugs and salt and pepper shakers to the repurposed hairdryers, there's nothing institutional about it. The Beauty Shop is undeniably full of beautiful people — from young, urban couples (not hipsters) to fashionable forty- and fifty-somethings who appreciate that the waitress half their age calls them darlin' rather than ma'am.
The menu is expansive and has everything you ever wanted in a brunch. If it's hash browns you want, there are three choices: Country Ham Hash, Chicken or Beef Tenderloin Hash, and Pastrami Hash. All sell for $13.
I went for the Country Ham Hash, which, according to the menu, features: potatoes, sweet potatoes, red peppers, onions, and cracked eggs with mustard chipotle sauce. Once cracked, I asked for the eggs over hard. Smothered in the spicy sauce, they were the perfect topping for the potatoes. I don't love sweet potatoes and wasn't sad that there were maybe only three mixed in. I did love the addition of red peppers. The country ham is cured, so it's drier and saltier than regular ham, which is fine by me, and there was just the right amount of it. A touch of cilantro on top gave the dish that little something extra.
The coffee is good, and the mimosas are immense.
Alchemy, 940 Cooper (726-4444)
Down the road at Alchemy, the brunch scene is decidedly less "eat and be seen," and much more "drink, eat, and relax." If you have a hangover or like to spend your Sundays day-drinking, this is the place for you.
The separate drink menu features the most extensive list of Bloody Mary options I've ever seen. There's a house-made vegan mix, 12 kinds of garnish (including the day's pickled treat), and special add-ons like blue cheese olives. If Bloody Marys aren't your thing, then there's also a Bellini bar (with "Surprise me!" as an option), house-made sangria, and a variety of coffee-booze concoctions. Bartender David Parks is also happy to throw together fancy non-alcoholic beverages, which he dubs "prenatal cocktails."
Food starts coming out of the kitchen at 10:30 a.m., and the bar closes at 4 p.m.
In terms of hash browns, there are two options, and I had to try them both. The Pimento Cheese Hash Browns, which can be ordered as a side, come in a small skillet. It's filled with crispy diced potatoes (that look as though they were originally meant to be fries) and topped with a large dollop of house-made pimento cheese. The cheese gets a little melty when added to the hot potatoes, and the result is simply delicious. It could easily be a meal and would be the best $5 you spent all day. Trust me.
For a fancier start to the day, there's the Shrimp and Bacon Hash ($18), which features poached eggs on toasted French bread with salsa fresca and cotija cheese. The shrimp are plump and juicy, the bacon is thick, crispy, and crumbled, and the eggs are cooked to perfection. The French bread is slender, yet has no problem providing the perfect base for this dish. The hash browns are the middle man and make it a satisfying, hearty meal. The Shrimp and Bacon Hash makes me wish every day was Sunday.
Three Angels Diner, 2617 Broad (452-1111)
If low-key is what you are looking for, then head over to Three Angels on Broad, which starts serving brunch at 10 a.m. It's part diner, part bar and attracts a mixed bag of hipsters, families, and hipster families. By far, it has the most hash brown bang for the buck in town.
The Kitchen Sink ($11) includes beef brisket hash, homemade sausage, bacon, garlic cheese grits, flat top potatoes, cheese, two fried eggs, and homemade salsa. This has to be the most serious brunch offering in the city. I dare say there should be a food competition built around it.
The grits are smeared across the bottom of the plate. There's at least two or three cups worth of brisket hash, full strips of bacon, sausage patties cut in half —you get the picture. My serving even included a few boiled red potatoes.
It's a man's dish. Or, at the very least, a roller derby girl's.
Photographer Joey Miller, who happened to be sitting next to me at the bar eating the most beautiful blueberry pancakes I'd ever seen, said, "Last time I got the Kitchen Sink, I drank nearly a whole bottle of Jameson the night before, with no Taco Bell."
The coffee's nothing special, but there's local beer on tap, and the French 75s are perfect.
Published February 5, 2014 in the Memphis Flyer
Beauty Shop, 966 S. Cooper (272-7111)
The Beauty Shop starts serving brunch at 10 a.m., and I recommended getting there early or making a reservation if you want a seat. On a recent Sunday, sidewalk seating was full by 11 a.m. — and it was 54 degrees outside.
Inside, it's warm, welcoming, and totally funky in the best way. From the mismatched mugs and salt and pepper shakers to the repurposed hairdryers, there's nothing institutional about it. The Beauty Shop is undeniably full of beautiful people — from young, urban couples (not hipsters) to fashionable forty- and fifty-somethings who appreciate that the waitress half their age calls them darlin' rather than ma'am.
The menu is expansive and has everything you ever wanted in a brunch. If it's hash browns you want, there are three choices: Country Ham Hash, Chicken or Beef Tenderloin Hash, and Pastrami Hash. All sell for $13.
I went for the Country Ham Hash, which, according to the menu, features: potatoes, sweet potatoes, red peppers, onions, and cracked eggs with mustard chipotle sauce. Once cracked, I asked for the eggs over hard. Smothered in the spicy sauce, they were the perfect topping for the potatoes. I don't love sweet potatoes and wasn't sad that there were maybe only three mixed in. I did love the addition of red peppers. The country ham is cured, so it's drier and saltier than regular ham, which is fine by me, and there was just the right amount of it. A touch of cilantro on top gave the dish that little something extra.
The coffee is good, and the mimosas are immense.
Alchemy, 940 Cooper (726-4444)
Down the road at Alchemy, the brunch scene is decidedly less "eat and be seen," and much more "drink, eat, and relax." If you have a hangover or like to spend your Sundays day-drinking, this is the place for you.
The separate drink menu features the most extensive list of Bloody Mary options I've ever seen. There's a house-made vegan mix, 12 kinds of garnish (including the day's pickled treat), and special add-ons like blue cheese olives. If Bloody Marys aren't your thing, then there's also a Bellini bar (with "Surprise me!" as an option), house-made sangria, and a variety of coffee-booze concoctions. Bartender David Parks is also happy to throw together fancy non-alcoholic beverages, which he dubs "prenatal cocktails."
Food starts coming out of the kitchen at 10:30 a.m., and the bar closes at 4 p.m.
In terms of hash browns, there are two options, and I had to try them both. The Pimento Cheese Hash Browns, which can be ordered as a side, come in a small skillet. It's filled with crispy diced potatoes (that look as though they were originally meant to be fries) and topped with a large dollop of house-made pimento cheese. The cheese gets a little melty when added to the hot potatoes, and the result is simply delicious. It could easily be a meal and would be the best $5 you spent all day. Trust me.
For a fancier start to the day, there's the Shrimp and Bacon Hash ($18), which features poached eggs on toasted French bread with salsa fresca and cotija cheese. The shrimp are plump and juicy, the bacon is thick, crispy, and crumbled, and the eggs are cooked to perfection. The French bread is slender, yet has no problem providing the perfect base for this dish. The hash browns are the middle man and make it a satisfying, hearty meal. The Shrimp and Bacon Hash makes me wish every day was Sunday.
Three Angels Diner, 2617 Broad (452-1111)
If low-key is what you are looking for, then head over to Three Angels on Broad, which starts serving brunch at 10 a.m. It's part diner, part bar and attracts a mixed bag of hipsters, families, and hipster families. By far, it has the most hash brown bang for the buck in town.
The Kitchen Sink ($11) includes beef brisket hash, homemade sausage, bacon, garlic cheese grits, flat top potatoes, cheese, two fried eggs, and homemade salsa. This has to be the most serious brunch offering in the city. I dare say there should be a food competition built around it.
The grits are smeared across the bottom of the plate. There's at least two or three cups worth of brisket hash, full strips of bacon, sausage patties cut in half —you get the picture. My serving even included a few boiled red potatoes.
It's a man's dish. Or, at the very least, a roller derby girl's.
Photographer Joey Miller, who happened to be sitting next to me at the bar eating the most beautiful blueberry pancakes I'd ever seen, said, "Last time I got the Kitchen Sink, I drank nearly a whole bottle of Jameson the night before, with no Taco Bell."
The coffee's nothing special, but there's local beer on tap, and the French 75s are perfect.
Thursday, September 5, 2013
Buffalo Pie
Published September 5, 2013 in the Memphis Flyer
"Sometimes it was mild, and sometimes it would be so hot I would go through a stack of napkins just wiping the sweat off my face," says Amy Stewart-Banbury, reminiscing about the Hi-Tone's famous hot-wing pizza.
While the live-music venue reopened earlier this summer at a new location, the pizza as of now remains a memory. There is nothing quite the same as the Hi-Tone's "flaming" hot-wing pizza, but several restaurants have their own variations on the Buffalo chicken pizza.
In June, the Memphis Pizza Café (MPC) created a new Buffalo chicken pizza as the "pizza of the month." It was so popular they added it to the permanent menu at every location. The pizza has an olive oil base and is topped with mozzarella, cheddar, chicken, Frank's hot sauce, and ranch dressing.
MPC's version definitely does not go easy on the Frank's. The artistic drizzle of ranch dressing may take a bite out of the heat, but the heavy-handedness with the Frank's definitely hits the spot and satisfies the strongest of Buffalo sauce cravings. The thin, famously crispy MPC crust is the perfect base and makes it (too) easy to polish off a whole pizza without blinking.
Memphis Pizza Café, multiple locations, memphispizzacafe.com
Camy's also has a Buffalo chicken pizza available for dine-in or delivery. The Buffalo sauce is more sweet than hot, and the standout on this pizza is the red onion scattered in rings across the top. It's tasty, but for a more "Buffalo" flavor, you can doctor it up with your own hot sauce. This is perfectly acceptable considering someone will bring the pizza to your door from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. (midnight on weekends).
Camy's, 3 S. Barksdale (725-1667), camys.com
The fanciest Buffalo chicken pizza in town is at High Point Pizza and is aptly called the Buffalo Chicken Supreme. Its base is a regular cheese pizza with red sauce. On top is cubed chicken breast, crumbled Gorgonzola cheese, and several swirls of a housemade Sriracha ranch dressing.
The pizza has a nice heat from the Sriracha, and the red sauce is an added bonus. The Gorgonzola definitely elevates it above an average Buffalo chicken pizza. (High Point Pizza is also doing some fun specials like a greens-and-pork pizza.) Oh, and, Celiacs, rejoice: High Point offers a gluten-free crust as well.
High Point Pizza, 477 A High Point Terrace (452-3339),
facebook.com/HighPointPizza
For those not opposed to hitting the road, Buon Cibo in Hernando has a mighty fine Buffalo chicken pizza they call the Itta Bena. (Maybe B.B. King is a Buffalo chicken fan?) Buon Cibo only serves pizzas in one size — 10 inches — so it's 100 percent socially acceptable to refuse to share. Buon Cibo's crust is stellar. It has the perfect chew and fold, much like a perfect New York slice.
The Itta Bena starts with a cheese pizza, like at High Point, and then tops it with cubed chicken that has been tossed in Buffalo sauce and has just the tiniest bits of celery sprinkled across. The menu listing says it also includes blue cheese, but, if this is true, it is incredibly subtle. Regardless, it's a damn fine pizza.
Buon Cibo, 2631 McIngvale, Hernando, MS (662 469-9481), buonciborestaurant.com
"Sometimes it was mild, and sometimes it would be so hot I would go through a stack of napkins just wiping the sweat off my face," says Amy Stewart-Banbury, reminiscing about the Hi-Tone's famous hot-wing pizza.
While the live-music venue reopened earlier this summer at a new location, the pizza as of now remains a memory. There is nothing quite the same as the Hi-Tone's "flaming" hot-wing pizza, but several restaurants have their own variations on the Buffalo chicken pizza.
In June, the Memphis Pizza Café (MPC) created a new Buffalo chicken pizza as the "pizza of the month." It was so popular they added it to the permanent menu at every location. The pizza has an olive oil base and is topped with mozzarella, cheddar, chicken, Frank's hot sauce, and ranch dressing.
MPC's version definitely does not go easy on the Frank's. The artistic drizzle of ranch dressing may take a bite out of the heat, but the heavy-handedness with the Frank's definitely hits the spot and satisfies the strongest of Buffalo sauce cravings. The thin, famously crispy MPC crust is the perfect base and makes it (too) easy to polish off a whole pizza without blinking.
Memphis Pizza Café, multiple locations, memphispizzacafe.com
Camy's also has a Buffalo chicken pizza available for dine-in or delivery. The Buffalo sauce is more sweet than hot, and the standout on this pizza is the red onion scattered in rings across the top. It's tasty, but for a more "Buffalo" flavor, you can doctor it up with your own hot sauce. This is perfectly acceptable considering someone will bring the pizza to your door from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. (midnight on weekends).
Camy's, 3 S. Barksdale (725-1667), camys.com
The fanciest Buffalo chicken pizza in town is at High Point Pizza and is aptly called the Buffalo Chicken Supreme. Its base is a regular cheese pizza with red sauce. On top is cubed chicken breast, crumbled Gorgonzola cheese, and several swirls of a housemade Sriracha ranch dressing.
The pizza has a nice heat from the Sriracha, and the red sauce is an added bonus. The Gorgonzola definitely elevates it above an average Buffalo chicken pizza. (High Point Pizza is also doing some fun specials like a greens-and-pork pizza.) Oh, and, Celiacs, rejoice: High Point offers a gluten-free crust as well.
High Point Pizza, 477 A High Point Terrace (452-3339),
facebook.com/HighPointPizza
For those not opposed to hitting the road, Buon Cibo in Hernando has a mighty fine Buffalo chicken pizza they call the Itta Bena. (Maybe B.B. King is a Buffalo chicken fan?) Buon Cibo only serves pizzas in one size — 10 inches — so it's 100 percent socially acceptable to refuse to share. Buon Cibo's crust is stellar. It has the perfect chew and fold, much like a perfect New York slice.
The Itta Bena starts with a cheese pizza, like at High Point, and then tops it with cubed chicken that has been tossed in Buffalo sauce and has just the tiniest bits of celery sprinkled across. The menu listing says it also includes blue cheese, but, if this is true, it is incredibly subtle. Regardless, it's a damn fine pizza.
Buon Cibo, 2631 McIngvale, Hernando, MS (662 469-9481), buonciborestaurant.com
Thursday, July 18, 2013
BBQ+
Restaurants, food trucks take on fried barbecue.
Published July 18, 2013 in the Memphis Flyer
Published July 18, 2013 in the Memphis Flyer
Beyond death and taxes, there are two knowns in life: 1) Everything
tastes better fried, and 2) barbecue is what Memphis does best.
This is a story about deep-fried barbecue.
A&R Bar-B-Que, named for Andrew & Rose Pollard who founded the restaurant in 1983 as fast-food take-out, has a motto, "Anyone can put the heat to the meat, but only a few can barbeque." This bold attitude can be tasted across the menu, but the fried barbecue pies take it to a new level.
The barbecue pies are not pretty, but they are tasty. Wrapped with a light and flaky pastry crust, they are definitely hearty enough to be a meal. The filling is generously packed inside the pastry, and it isn't unusual to get two pies for the price of one because the first one burst open while being fried. The chunky but bite-sized meat is heavily coated in sweet barbecue sauce (unless you order hot) and definitely takes center stage.
Available only at the original location in Whitehaven, the barbecue pies are made to order. Choose from beef, pork, or turkey; hot or mild sauce; and even add cheese if you like. The cost is $5.45.
For more traditional pie lovers, A&R serves apple, peach, and sweet potato fried pies at all of their locations.
A&R Bar-B-Que aandrbbq.com
The Stuffed Truck, which hit the streets last spring, was a combination of owner and chef Derek King's three loves — fiancée Hannah Bailey, food, and business. The menu, designed to "stuff" its customers, is American fusion with a focus on gourmet burgers and empanadas. Empanadas are made by folding dough or bread around stuffing, which usually consists of a variety of meat. Among the stuffed offerings is a barbecue empanada with slow-smoked, pulled pork coated in King's own barbecue sauce and topped with fresh-made coleslaw. The result is a tangy and perfectly crisp hand-held meal.The only menu item more popular than the barbecue empanada is the slow-roasted pork carnitas empanada stuffed with slow-roasted, spicy shredded pork, lime juice, fresh cilantro, and chili powder.
The pastry is sourced from New Orleans, but everything else is completely homemade. Each empanada is gently folded by hand and is a feast for the eyes. You can get one for $5 or two for $8.
Stuffed Truck • stuffedtruck.com • @ GetStuffedTruck
Kooky Canuck, which is best known as the "Home of the 4lb Burger" and corresponding "Kookamunga Challenge," is also in on the fried-pork action, although in the form of an eggroll. Their signature BBQ eggrolls ($7.99) are described as "an Asian favorite with a Kooky Canuck twist." The barbecue and slaw are wrapped tight in an eggroll wrapper and fried a golden brown. The result is a crispy, savory sensation. They are perfectly tasty on their own — the dipping sauce is merely a bonus.
Owner Shawn Danko says he and Sean McCarty came up with the concept back in 2004. "We were making Asian Lumpias, or spring rolls, one night when we looked at one another and said, 'What do you think about adding barbecue pork and coleslaw?'" They did just that, but soon discovered that the spring-roll wrapper was far too delicate for the combination. Thankfully, eggroll wrappers worked just fine.
The eggrolls have been on the menu since day one and sell quite well. "We have emails from around the world asking us to send barbecue eggrolls anyway possible," Danko says.
Kooky Canuck • 97 S. Second • 578-9800 • kookycanuck.com
The Double J Smokehouse & Saloon has its own take on the barbecue eggroll. Double J's infused meat is full of rendered fat and has a really strong smoke flavor. They are seriously not kidding about being a smokehouse. The smoked pork eggrolls ($7) are super fat, almost burrito-esque, and bursting with the signature meat and house-made slaw. The accompanying sweet chili sauce is really no match for the smoke, so ask for the regular barbecue sauce instead.
Double J Smokehouse & Saloon • 124 E GE Patterson 347-2648 • doublejsmokehouse.com
This is a story about deep-fried barbecue.
A&R Bar-B-Que, named for Andrew & Rose Pollard who founded the restaurant in 1983 as fast-food take-out, has a motto, "Anyone can put the heat to the meat, but only a few can barbeque." This bold attitude can be tasted across the menu, but the fried barbecue pies take it to a new level.
The barbecue pies are not pretty, but they are tasty. Wrapped with a light and flaky pastry crust, they are definitely hearty enough to be a meal. The filling is generously packed inside the pastry, and it isn't unusual to get two pies for the price of one because the first one burst open while being fried. The chunky but bite-sized meat is heavily coated in sweet barbecue sauce (unless you order hot) and definitely takes center stage.
Available only at the original location in Whitehaven, the barbecue pies are made to order. Choose from beef, pork, or turkey; hot or mild sauce; and even add cheese if you like. The cost is $5.45.
For more traditional pie lovers, A&R serves apple, peach, and sweet potato fried pies at all of their locations.
A&R Bar-B-Que aandrbbq.com
The Stuffed Truck, which hit the streets last spring, was a combination of owner and chef Derek King's three loves — fiancée Hannah Bailey, food, and business. The menu, designed to "stuff" its customers, is American fusion with a focus on gourmet burgers and empanadas. Empanadas are made by folding dough or bread around stuffing, which usually consists of a variety of meat. Among the stuffed offerings is a barbecue empanada with slow-smoked, pulled pork coated in King's own barbecue sauce and topped with fresh-made coleslaw. The result is a tangy and perfectly crisp hand-held meal.The only menu item more popular than the barbecue empanada is the slow-roasted pork carnitas empanada stuffed with slow-roasted, spicy shredded pork, lime juice, fresh cilantro, and chili powder.
The pastry is sourced from New Orleans, but everything else is completely homemade. Each empanada is gently folded by hand and is a feast for the eyes. You can get one for $5 or two for $8.
Stuffed Truck • stuffedtruck.com • @ GetStuffedTruck
Kooky Canuck, which is best known as the "Home of the 4lb Burger" and corresponding "Kookamunga Challenge," is also in on the fried-pork action, although in the form of an eggroll. Their signature BBQ eggrolls ($7.99) are described as "an Asian favorite with a Kooky Canuck twist." The barbecue and slaw are wrapped tight in an eggroll wrapper and fried a golden brown. The result is a crispy, savory sensation. They are perfectly tasty on their own — the dipping sauce is merely a bonus.
Owner Shawn Danko says he and Sean McCarty came up with the concept back in 2004. "We were making Asian Lumpias, or spring rolls, one night when we looked at one another and said, 'What do you think about adding barbecue pork and coleslaw?'" They did just that, but soon discovered that the spring-roll wrapper was far too delicate for the combination. Thankfully, eggroll wrappers worked just fine.
The eggrolls have been on the menu since day one and sell quite well. "We have emails from around the world asking us to send barbecue eggrolls anyway possible," Danko says.
Kooky Canuck • 97 S. Second • 578-9800 • kookycanuck.com
The Double J Smokehouse & Saloon has its own take on the barbecue eggroll. Double J's infused meat is full of rendered fat and has a really strong smoke flavor. They are seriously not kidding about being a smokehouse. The smoked pork eggrolls ($7) are super fat, almost burrito-esque, and bursting with the signature meat and house-made slaw. The accompanying sweet chili sauce is really no match for the smoke, so ask for the regular barbecue sauce instead.
Double J Smokehouse & Saloon • 124 E GE Patterson 347-2648 • doublejsmokehouse.com
Thursday, January 3, 2013
Raw Girls Memphis
Amy Pickle and Hannah Phillips of Raw Girls Memphis
Published January 3, 2013 in the Memphis Flyer
Published January 3, 2013 in the Memphis Flyer
Amy Pickle and Hannah Phillips are bringing their love of organic raw
foods to Memphians with their new food delivery service, Raw Girls
Memphis. A raw diet is plant-based. It differs from a vegetarian or
vegan diet in that nothing is heated over 118 degrees. This enables the
foods to retain their live enzymes. Hence, raw food is often described
as live food.
Phillips has been eating raw for about five years, and Pickle, a vegetarian since age 17, went raw about six months ago. Pickle says she has felt a major energy shift after only eating raw foods. She's also lost 23 pounds and says she has healthy hair and skin for the first time.
"We're 95 percent raw but not rigid," Phillips explains. It can be difficult to maintain a raw diet in Memphis, especially when dining out. "When it is a struggle to find something to eat, we order salad," Pickle says.
They say a raw diet is not about deprivation, but it can be isolating. Phillips admits that she was never good at making raw food taste great but was willing to eat foods for their health benefits rather than taste. Pickle's culinary skills changed all of that.
Pickle attended the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, New York. While there she worked two to three days a week in the Mercer Kitchen with master chef Jean George, who studied in Thailand. She did her externship at the Zuni Café in San Francisco under chef Judy Rodgers, who got her start at Chez Panisse.
Working from scratch and using seasonal foods and local ingredients became second nature to Pickle. After moving back to Memphis in 2008, she worked in restaurants but had a hard time finding her way. "There were no farmers markets, and everyone wanted to cut corners. I couldn't do it," she says. By 2009, she was doing computer work.
Making raw food taste great is a challenge that has reinvigorated Pickle. "I try to think about what would make hot food taste good and go from there," she says. Her menu planning starts at a farmers market on Saturday. In addition to the produce she orders in bulk from Downing Hollow and Tubby Creek farms, she looks for inspiration. "I taste things and get excited," she says.
Once they have their ingredients, the Raw Girls load up their backpacks with cookbooks and head to Otherlands to study recipes. On Sunday, they confirm orders, and preparation starts at 4 a.m. Monday morning.
Some of Pickle's most popular items are bello burgers (made with almonds, portabello mushrooms, yellow bell peppers, carrots, and herbs); Thai croquettes (made with shiitake mushrooms and red and yellow peppers) served with red curry sauce; pizza (made with walnut, flaxseed meal, sun dried tomato pizza dough); and wilted kale salad.
Pickle marinates mushrooms with agave and shogu and massages greens with sea salt. "The food processor is my BFF. Walnuts and almonds are great for a base. Portabellos, red and yellow bell peppers, basil, cilantro, and garlic are must-have ingredients," she says.
A dehydrator binds the burgers and croquettes together and make breads and pizza crusts. This can be labor intensive, and the breads can take up to 48 hours to dehydrate, but it is a labor of love. "People like raw food to look like the other foods they are used to eating," Pickle explains.
Phillips' specialty is dessert. Pickle describes her as "a real alchemist." She has a raw foods certification from David Wolfe, the "rock star" of the superfoods and longevity world and author of many best selling books, including Superfoods: The Food and Medicine of the Future. She makes rich and satisfying sweets without refined sugar or syrup. Some of her most popular desserts include raw pumpkin pie, chocolate ganache, and deep chocolate (pure cacao) pudding (made with avocado and banana as the base) topped with goji berries and cacao nibs.
The raw-foods home-delivery service started in June, almost by accident. A friend offered to pay Pickle and Phillips for a daily meal delivery after tasting food they made for each other. The friend told other friends and overnight the Raw Girls had 10 clients.
In August, they started a Facebook page and began taking weekly orders. They quickly built a base of about 60 customers who order every week or every other week, for an average of 30 orders per week.
Pickle, who also runs an IT business called Pickle IT, started declining work, and Phillips, who operated Give Yoga for five years, found out the building she was renting was being sold. "It was like the universe said, 'This is what you should be doing,'" Phillips says. "Amy and I are together 24/7 now. We're partners in life and partners in work."
As their business grows, they are looking for ways to improve their services. They originally offered a daily delivery of dinner Monday to Friday for $120 per week. Now they are switching to a weekly box of food delivered on Monday with five meals and ingredients for five superfood smoothies for $120 per week.
Vacuum packing foods offered them more flexibility in their menus. They hope to serve not only Memphis and the surrounding area but the entire United States. "The local market comes first, but we'd love to be huge. We are in radical times foodwise," Pickle says.
The Raw Girls recently spent a week in Portland, Oregon, to research the raw-food scene there and have now leased a space to expand their kitchen.
"This work has been transformative," Pickle says. "Our food is guilt-free, and it really gives back to you."
"We have big dreams," Phillips says.
facebook.com/rawgirlsmemphis
rawgirls@gmail.com — Raw Girls Memphis: 496-0755
Phillips has been eating raw for about five years, and Pickle, a vegetarian since age 17, went raw about six months ago. Pickle says she has felt a major energy shift after only eating raw foods. She's also lost 23 pounds and says she has healthy hair and skin for the first time.
"We're 95 percent raw but not rigid," Phillips explains. It can be difficult to maintain a raw diet in Memphis, especially when dining out. "When it is a struggle to find something to eat, we order salad," Pickle says.
They say a raw diet is not about deprivation, but it can be isolating. Phillips admits that she was never good at making raw food taste great but was willing to eat foods for their health benefits rather than taste. Pickle's culinary skills changed all of that.
Pickle attended the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, New York. While there she worked two to three days a week in the Mercer Kitchen with master chef Jean George, who studied in Thailand. She did her externship at the Zuni Café in San Francisco under chef Judy Rodgers, who got her start at Chez Panisse.
Working from scratch and using seasonal foods and local ingredients became second nature to Pickle. After moving back to Memphis in 2008, she worked in restaurants but had a hard time finding her way. "There were no farmers markets, and everyone wanted to cut corners. I couldn't do it," she says. By 2009, she was doing computer work.
Making raw food taste great is a challenge that has reinvigorated Pickle. "I try to think about what would make hot food taste good and go from there," she says. Her menu planning starts at a farmers market on Saturday. In addition to the produce she orders in bulk from Downing Hollow and Tubby Creek farms, she looks for inspiration. "I taste things and get excited," she says.
Once they have their ingredients, the Raw Girls load up their backpacks with cookbooks and head to Otherlands to study recipes. On Sunday, they confirm orders, and preparation starts at 4 a.m. Monday morning.
Some of Pickle's most popular items are bello burgers (made with almonds, portabello mushrooms, yellow bell peppers, carrots, and herbs); Thai croquettes (made with shiitake mushrooms and red and yellow peppers) served with red curry sauce; pizza (made with walnut, flaxseed meal, sun dried tomato pizza dough); and wilted kale salad.
Pickle marinates mushrooms with agave and shogu and massages greens with sea salt. "The food processor is my BFF. Walnuts and almonds are great for a base. Portabellos, red and yellow bell peppers, basil, cilantro, and garlic are must-have ingredients," she says.
A dehydrator binds the burgers and croquettes together and make breads and pizza crusts. This can be labor intensive, and the breads can take up to 48 hours to dehydrate, but it is a labor of love. "People like raw food to look like the other foods they are used to eating," Pickle explains.
Phillips' specialty is dessert. Pickle describes her as "a real alchemist." She has a raw foods certification from David Wolfe, the "rock star" of the superfoods and longevity world and author of many best selling books, including Superfoods: The Food and Medicine of the Future. She makes rich and satisfying sweets without refined sugar or syrup. Some of her most popular desserts include raw pumpkin pie, chocolate ganache, and deep chocolate (pure cacao) pudding (made with avocado and banana as the base) topped with goji berries and cacao nibs.
The raw-foods home-delivery service started in June, almost by accident. A friend offered to pay Pickle and Phillips for a daily meal delivery after tasting food they made for each other. The friend told other friends and overnight the Raw Girls had 10 clients.
In August, they started a Facebook page and began taking weekly orders. They quickly built a base of about 60 customers who order every week or every other week, for an average of 30 orders per week.
Pickle, who also runs an IT business called Pickle IT, started declining work, and Phillips, who operated Give Yoga for five years, found out the building she was renting was being sold. "It was like the universe said, 'This is what you should be doing,'" Phillips says. "Amy and I are together 24/7 now. We're partners in life and partners in work."
As their business grows, they are looking for ways to improve their services. They originally offered a daily delivery of dinner Monday to Friday for $120 per week. Now they are switching to a weekly box of food delivered on Monday with five meals and ingredients for five superfood smoothies for $120 per week.
Vacuum packing foods offered them more flexibility in their menus. They hope to serve not only Memphis and the surrounding area but the entire United States. "The local market comes first, but we'd love to be huge. We are in radical times foodwise," Pickle says.
The Raw Girls recently spent a week in Portland, Oregon, to research the raw-food scene there and have now leased a space to expand their kitchen.
"This work has been transformative," Pickle says. "Our food is guilt-free, and it really gives back to you."
"We have big dreams," Phillips says.
facebook.com/rawgirlsmemphis
rawgirls@gmail.com — Raw Girls Memphis: 496-0755
Thursday, October 4, 2012
Meet Miles
Miles McMath on serving 2,000 meals a day.
Published October 4, 2012 in the Memphis Flyer
Published October 4, 2012 in the Memphis Flyer
Originally from Birmingham, Miles McMath, 41, is one of Memphis' most regarded chefs, even though you may have never heard of him. He's quietly turning St. Jude's Kay Café into a model of efficiency and wellness, while racking up awards, participating in local charity events, and raising a family.
The recent second-place winner in the Cochon Heritage BBQ competition, McMath once owned three restaurants in north Mississippi: Timbeaux's, Boiling Point, and Junior's. He sold them in 2005 after Hurricane Katrina. "There was a chef who needed help in New Orleans and I always loved it there, so we moved there to help out for a year before the kids were old enough to go to school," he says.
When McMath returned to the Mid-South, it was to help launch a new seafood restaurant. However, before he could sign a management contract, a friend from culinary school told him about the renovation of Kay Café at St. Jude. "I talked to my wife about it. It would be a Monday through Friday job, which would be good for the family, and I could still cook pretty good food there," he says. When he started in March 2008, Kay Café was just a set of drawings. Today, he is the director of culinary operations with a staff of 80.
McMath lives east of Hernando, Mississippi, with his wife, three children, and a lot of animals. There are three pigs, laying chickens, meat chickens that he calls freedom rangers, 60 Angus cattle, and wild deer. "We don't eat much meat we don't raise ourselves," McMath says. He and his wife have two acres of land. His father-in-law keeps the cattle and pigs on another eight acres. His wife's extended family has another 35 to 40 acres with even more cows.
McMath says it's a community where everyone knows everyone else, and they share everything. "Everyone has a special thing they do. A friend grows watermelons so no one else plants watermelon, my father-in-law does peas, etc."
He says his family is very committed to eating seasonally, and they have been known to go "forever" without eating bacon. McMath recently "processed" 25 chickens. "It had been six months since we ate any chicken. The kids watched most of it, and it didn't bother them at all," he says. "We have a lot of conversations about where food comes from."
"I use everything," he says of the chickens. "The gizzard, heart, feet — everything except the head."
The first thing McMath made was chicken tenders for the kids. "We have never eaten at McDonald's. That's just not what we do," he says, admitting that their grandparents have been known to take them to Sonic for an ice cream or two.
Feeding his kids is easy compared to feeding the employees, patients, and visitors at St. Jude. That adds up to 2,000 meals a day, plus catering. "There aren't many places where you have the same customers every day," McMath says. "It can be a challenge."
Plate by plate, the food is ever-changing at Kay Café. To an outsider, it pretty much looks like the best cafeteria ever. (Kay Café is not open to the general public.) There's a sushi station with grass-fed beef, a grill area with the usual suspects (hamburgers, chicken tenders, hot dogs), a bakery with fresh bread and pastries, a basic salad bar, a seriously fancy salad bar, a deli with homemade spreads like sunbutter and homemade pickles, wood-fired pizzas, and so much more.
McMath uses vegetables grown on site at St. Jude and is doing a special focus on sustainable seafood right now. He's got food trucks coming on a regular basis and is also looking to partner with local chefs, like Ryan Trimm of Sweet Grass, to serve restaurant-quality dishes in the café. "I want to promote local restaurants to patients and families and give them a taste," he says.
Ninety-five percent of patients at St. Jude are outpatient. However, there is an average of 50 beds with really sick kids. McMath says they have a room-service menu, but these kids can pretty much have whatever they want. "They want comfort food from home, wherever home is. We have an arsenal of ingredients and staples in the kitchen, and we spend time with parents to get specific brands, etc.," he says. Right now, they have an enamel pot full of beans on the stove at all times to soothe the stomach of one Chinese patient. "His mom gave us the recipe and it took us a couple of days, but Rick Farmer nailed it," McMath says.
Farmer and Luahn Thomas both recently left L'Ecole Culinaire to work as executive chefs in Kay Café. Of the seven certified executive chefs in Memphis, four of them work at Kay Café.
McMath says he doesn't get to do a lot of actual cooking anymore, but he tries to cook something every day. "Cooking used to be 90 percent of my job. The administrative part can be draining, but I can always go cook when I get fed up," he says.
Thursday, August 30, 2012
B.Y.O. (Build Your Own) Sandwich at Bleu
Published August 30, 2012 in the Memphis Flyer
Many fast-food-style delis allow customers to basically build their own sandwiches. Bleu, located in the Westin Hotel, has taken this idea and put an upscale spin on it with the B.Y.O. sandwich. At lunch, customers can follow an easy eight-step process to create the sandwich of their dreams. A quick glance at Step 1: Choose Your Protein and you know already that you're going to have a great sandwich. Among the choices: Black Angus beef, marinated chicken breast, ahi tuna, fried catfish, portabello mushroom cap, or sliced sirloin. Aw, yeah. From there, you choose the way you want your protein cooked and what you want it served on. (My personal favorite is a grilled cheese bun.) Then it's time to choose a fancy sauce and a fancy cheese, if you so desire. Step 6 allows you to add any three of the following: iceberg lettuce, arugula, sliced pickles, cole slaw, Bermuda onions, jalapenos, caramelized onion, sauteed mushrooms, tomatoes, and roasted red peppers. Step 7 — premium toppings — is arguably the best, even if it costs an extra $1. Choose to add avocado, fried egg, applewood-smoked bacon, onion rings, or fried tomato. Step 8 is all about the sides: hand-cut fries, potato salad, fruit cup, sweet potato fries, or cole slaw. The trick, of course, is to not get carried away or overthink it. And if at first you don't succeed in building the best sandwich ever, you can always try again. — Stacey Greenberg
Bleu, 221 S. 3rd (334-5950)
bleumemphis.com
Thursday, August 16, 2012
Salt & Pepper Shrimp at Evelyn & Olive
Published August 16, 2012 in the Memphis Flyer
There's an unwritten rule at Evelyn & Olive, downtown's Jamaican and Southern-style restaurant and wine bar: Everything tastes better with a little Boom Boom sauce. Made from chili peppers, garlic, mayonnaise, tomato, and pickle, it's a cross between traditional hot sauce and remoulade. Not too spicy and full of flavor, it definitely makes every dish sing a little louder. My favorite pairing is with the Salt & Pepper Shrimp. Very lightly breaded and fried, the crispy white shrimp serve as the perfect vehicle for the Boom Boom sauce. Listed as a starter, the Salt & Pepper Shrimp is a great way to start the meal with friends. However, the generous serving can also make a great entrée, if, like me, you find it hard to share.
Thursday, July 19, 2012
Made Good
What began as bar talk ends with Jack Magoo's.
Published July 19, 2012 in the Memphis Flyer
Published July 19, 2012 in the Memphis Flyer
You know those two guys at the bar always jawing about what they'd do differently if they owned a bar? Well, they made good.
At the New Face for an Old Broad event in November 2010, the Broad Avenue Business Association staged the old Town & Country Locksmith building as a restaurant space in the hopes that someone would see the potential for a real restaurant. Bryan Plunk and Jim Shannon were those someones.
The longtime drinking buddies had been planning to open "their" bar for more than 10 years. When they first hatched the idea, they called Shannon's brother to share the news and solicit a name. "Jack Magoo's," he replied, and that was that.
Plunk thought Midtown needed a sports bar or, rather, his sports bar. "I looked in Cooper-Young and downtown, but after spending some time at Three Angels and the Cove, I thought Broad Avenue was the perfect spot," Plunk says. "I finally said to Jim that if he was ready, then we should just do it."
They spent about six months renovating the 100-year-old building and opened last September. Inside, you will find a downstairs bar and an upstairs bar. (Upstairs is known to get a little rowdier.) There are 26 TVs and three more are on the way. Football and basketball are the big draws, but patrons can watch anything they want — from wrestling to softball to the Tour de France. Plunk is excited about the Olympics and plans to provide a lot of coverage.
Magoo's isn't limited to sports. There's live music every night and trivia on Mondays and Thursdays. They also host special events that include bringing in contestants from popular TV shows like Hell's Kitchen and RuPaul's Drag Race.
The new patio has seating for 50, an outdoor bar, several TVs, and a stage for live music. Magoo's also embraces the artistic side of Broad Avenue. Looming over the patio is one-half of a pink Cadillac that was installed by Shawn Young of Kingfish Metalworks. (The other half will soon be installed in the upstairs bar.) The patio will feature a bar inside a converted school bus.
Magoo's kitchen stays open until 1:30 a.m. The menu features hot wings, tamales, salads, vegetarian dishes, and more. The sliders, known as the Magoobers, are the big sellers. All burgers are hand-formed, the chicken is hand-breaded, and they make their own wing sauces and salad dressings. Other hot menu items include bacon-wrapped shrimp, house-made chili, and Miss Sherry's tamales. "Miss Sherry used to work at the post office, and I told her if I ever opened my bar, I would sell her tamales," Plunk says. He plans to expand the menu before football season with more vegetarian options like portobello mushrooms and vegetable kabobs.
General manager Mike Turner is also very proud of the cocktail menu. He says the secret to a good sports bar is good drinks at good prices. To that end, he can make over 3,000 cocktails and will happily create custom shooters based on a customer's outfit or favorite color. Lately, he's been experimenting with beer cocktails, which he says are great for summer. "You can slam them without getting hammered," he explains.
After he perfected his barbecue beer cocktail, a customer challenged him to top himself. He jokingly said that a chicken ramen cocktail would be his next creation. Even though he was kidding, he couldn't resist creating it. Believe it or not, a PBR, some celery bitters, and celery salt actually taste a lot like chicken broth. "And it's vegan," Turner notes.
If he's on duty, Turner will happily make a "Mikeytail" for whoever asks, but there are also 23 beers on tap and 33 available in the bottle.
As for Plunk and Shannon, they're still those two guys hanging out at the bar. "Jim and I are here every night," Plunk says. "It's our favorite hangout."
Thursday, June 28, 2012
Kale Chips
Published June 28, 2012 in the Memphis Flyer
The Cosmic Coconut is an all vegan, all organic juice bar, which is pretty otherworldly for Memphis. I've been a fan since day one and often pop in for a Go Green (cucumber, apple, celery, ginger, chard, lemon) juice when I'm running errands out east. On my last few visits, I've also picked up an order of their delicious kale chips. I know, right? Kale and chips don't even belong in the same sentence, but they taste so good it is easy to forget that they derive from a vegetable. The kale is coated in dressing and then put in a dehydrator overnight. The dressing is definitely the secret here. Made from shredded coconut, cashews, garlic, lime, lemon, sea salt, ginger, cayenne, black pepper, carrots, nutritional yeast, and Mexican fiesta seasoning, it is a little sweet, a little spicy, and also quite tangy. After the initial crunch, the chips basically melt in your mouth. Seriously, a vegetable has never tasted this good. — Stacey Greenberg
The Cosmic Coconut, 5101 Sanderlin (729-7134)
The Cosmic Coconut, 5101 Sanderlin (729-7134)
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